What Light Through Yonder Fog Bank Breaks

When we awake this morning we make the same comment to each other “that had to be the best night’s sleep ever”. We reflect that the reason may have a lot to do with the shortage of sleep the night before on the ferry. We have enjoyed the Hotel Atlantica right down to our deluxe continental breakfast and reluctantly depart into the fog, hoping it clears before we reach the day’s first destination, Peggy’s Cove.
The fog persists as we travel Hwy 33 and what should have been a scenic ride through picturesque coastal villages is a disappointment. Peggy’s Cove, one of the most photographed locations in Canada, with its weathered fish sheds, colourful fishing boats, and vast rocky shoreline, is alive with tourists despite the fog! Peggy’s Cove is a little too titivate (over decorated) for us; we prefer the less-visited outports of Newfoundland. We snap a few photos at the lighthouse, that is now a post office, and proceed along Hwy 333 which winds its way through the fog beside beautiful St. Margaret’s Bay. At Tantallon we surrender to the fog and decide to save time and gas by taking the inland bypass Hwy 103 to the Mahone Bay exit.
Naturally it is sunny and hot on the inland highway. The humidity is 100% so even though the temperature is in the high 20’s, it feels like the high 30’s. The sunshine beams down on us all the way to spectacular Mahone Bay where we stop for lunch and chat with a local couple who also motorcycle. Hurricane Bill is the hot topic of the day and when we tell our new acquaintances of our plans to stay in Bridgewater that evening they strongly suggest we re-consider our plans as severe rain and wind are predicted on our proposed route tomorrow and they think we would be safer on the other side of province.
We decide to take their advice, find the nearest Nova Scotia Information office, luckily cancel one reservation and make another reservation at the hotel in Digby where we were headed in a day anyway. It means a longer day of riding today but we’re feeling less anxious about the impending weather. We’ve escaped serious “acts of God” before: arriving in Malaysia two days after the Tsunami in 2004 and leaving the Bahamas just hours before Hurricane Noel in 2007, and we’d like to keep it that way!
From Mahone Bay we head to Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, because the entire Old Town is comprised of restored buildings that preserve the Atlantic fishing and seafaring heritage. It’s hot, hot, hot, but no complaints from us as we realise that the weather is about to change drastically. We enjoy a delightful (but warm) walk through this historic town that has many outstanding attractions including the Bluenose II and a beautiful golf course. Before leaving Lunenberg we ride a side road to a tiny peninsula and beautiful Blue Rocks, an outport like Peggy’s Cove-before-it-became-so-popular.
Our change in plans means riding Hwy 3 to Bridgewater, then Hwy 103 to Liverpool, then Hwy 8 across the province (sounds long but turns out to be a fairly scenic 150 kms) to the impressive Digby Pines Resort in Digby. Its been a long day but we make sure the bike is as ready for the impending weather as possible before we head for bed.