Where the Fog Are We?

We spent the night at the Aubergine La Sainte Paix, a comfortable bed & breakfast with very amiable hosts and a lovely view of the Saguenay River. In our experience one of the disadvantages of a B&B is that one is usually confined to a very small room that can be very confining in bad weather - and the weather is bad! This morning we enjoyed a very interesting gourmet breakfast, put on our raingear, had a quick look at the sand dunes, and depart Tadoussac.
We are riding H138 to Forestville where we will catch our ferry across the St. Lawrence River. The small picturesque towns along this stretch of highway have stunning views of the St. Lawrence River and are one of the best places in Canada to see more than a dozen species of marine animals. There are also a number of excellent marine mammal interpretation centres, whale watching view points, and a variety of cruises. All of the experts tell us that there are presently 4 blue whales in the river, however, the river is very foggy and we are not as eager as the Europeans we’ve met here, to spend our money on a off chance of sighting a whale in the fog. We stop to take some pictures along the way but there is no sun, the river is dark, and the view is very limited.
We are taking the only fast ferry in operation in Quebec across the St. Lawrence from Forestville to Rimouski. The ferry is a catamaran that travels 55 km/h, carries 175 passengers, and 30 vehicles (plus as many others as can be squeezed in). We have the mandatory reservation so our bike is the first vehicle on the ferry. It is a interesting loading procedure where only the driver is permitted to drive onto the car deck and all passengers must walk on and off the ferry. The ferry is scheduled to depart at 1:30 pm but because there is heavy demand (not everyone has a reservation) as many vehicles as possible are loaded and we mean squeeze! Vehicles are parked near touching end-to-end and the driver needs a can-opener to get out of the vehicle. Outside mirrors have to be folded in to permit passage between vehicles. Every time a vehicle gets on the ferry dips sharply and Marlene, who suffers from motion sickness, cannot watch. Needless to say, the departure is delayed until 2:30. Because the St. Lawrence is completely salty at this point and tidal, with large ocean swells, the motorcycles all have to be tied down.
The river is completely fogged in and we are disappointed but our decision not to whale watch is confirmed as sound. The ferry is fast despite the fog and takes an hour to cross. We get the VIP treatment on arrival as the purser comes to find us, escorts us to the car deck, and allows Marlene to be the only passenger to ride off the ferry. We’re not sure whether this is because we are among the first 3 vehicles off and they don’t want us to hold up the unloading or because we are “anglais”. Rimouski and Mont Joli, where the Gaspe loop begins and ends, are also completely fogged in and we are glad we are not riding the Gaspe, although we have driven it in fine weather and can highly recommend it.
As we head inland on H132 the weather brightens, we see the sun for the first time today and our expectations for beautiful scenery are finally met. H132 begins in rolling farmlands, climbs into the highlands of the Appalachians, and passes many beautiful lakes and rushing rivers. This area is known for its outdoor activities and we spot many fly fisherman honing their skills. We are behind schedule because of the ferry delay and a little apprehensive as the sky is darkening with both the twilight and bad weather ahead. Our moods darken seriously when we get caught in a downpour about 35 kms short of our destination, Campbellton, New Brunswick which is just across the Restigouche River from Quebec. Particularly because we had taken our rain gear off a bit earlier and then have to suit up on the side of the highway in the rain! Thankfully there is room at the Comfort Inn and the Chinese restaurant next door is still open. It’s amazing how a good meal and a hot bath can ease tension of the ride.