Thursday, August 13, 2009

The Grand Concourse

It is a gorgeous day and we are going on an extended hike that begins at the Battery, a couple of rows of brightly coloured, much photographed, old fishing houses that hug the side of the harbour. We are hiking the East Cape Trail as it winds its way to the Narrows and finally up to Signal Hill. The trail is one of many in the Grand Concourse: 120 kms of fine, well-marked walking trails with signs and storyboards, that connect the green spaces, historic buildings, and parks throughout the city. (The East Cape trail is not to be confused with the East Coast Trail which is a 10 hour wilderness trail from Signal Hill south through 30 historic communities).
The East Cape Trail is a favourite hiking trail as it has spectacular views, including the one from the top of Signal Hill, where Marconi received the first trans-Atlantic wireless message in 1901 in the city’s most famous landmark, Cabot Tower. The Signal Hill National Historic site has also been the site of harbour defences for St. John’s from the 18th century to the Second World War.
From Signal Hill we walk across the headland over to Cuckold’s Cove and eventually to the small fishing village of Quidi Vidi. We tour the Quidi Vidi Battery Provincial Historic site where guides dressed in period costume help you imagine the life of soldiers and their families in this once very remote spot on the edge of the North Atlantic during the early 1800’s. Quidi Vidi village is losing some of its quaintness as large homes are being built on the harbour although it’s still home to North America’s oldest cottage, Mallard Cottage, which is crammed with assorted antiques and collectibles.
Although we had a very large breakfast and fruit and trail mix along the way, we are ready for some barley sandwiches at the QV Brewery. We sit on the wharf patio enjoying our sample pack of beer, the sunshine, the busy harbour, and think that life is grand in Newfoundland! The Quidi Vidi Brewing Company makes six thirst-quenching varieties: 1892 Tradition Ale, Honey Brown, Honey Brown Light, Eric’s Red, QV & QV Light.

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