Coast to Coast: Motorcycle Trip Across North America Summer 2009

A Journey Ends and Another Begins

2009-09-02T12:58:00.000-07:00

Marlene is flying home today from Logan Airport in Boston and Barry begins the much longer trip home on the motorcycle. Barry is determined to ride both ways across North America and Marlene is just as determined not to. More importantly we are both looking and heading in the same direction.

Whirlwind Tour

2009-09-01T12:57:00.000-07:00

We complete our visit to New York with the American Museum of Natural History, lunch at the Boathouse in Central Park, and the Empire State Building. Marlene even gets in an hour of speed shopping when Barry decides his legs can’t take it any more. We have found New York to be safe, friendly, easy to get around in by subway, and thoroughly wonderful. We are very tired and quiet on the train ride back to Boston, replaying all that we’ve seen in our memories.

Take My Hand, Take My Whole Life Too

2009-08-31T12:55:00.000-07:00

We aren’t able to describe all the places and things we saw today including: the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island from the Staten Island Ferry, Ground Zero, sensational Highline Park, Grand Central Station, the UN Plaza, and Rockefeller Center. Our advice is that you must see it for yourself, hopefully on such a beautiful, sunny day as this and be prepared to be awed. When we finally make it back to the hotel we have to soak our feet and give one another foot massages so we can walk again tomorrow! We chose the Salisbury Hotel for its proximity to Central Park, however, we only manage a short evening stroll before taking our weary bodies to bed. Although we were married 35 years ago, this entire day has been a celebration of the love, trust, partnership, tolerance and tenacity that has characterized all our journeys together. We are grateful we can celebrate is such a memorable city!

New York, New York

2009-08-30T12:52:00.000-07:00

We take our first trip on an Amtrak train from Boston’s South Station to New York’s Penn Station and enjoy the scenic route along the Eastern Seaboard very much. Train travel is a novelty for most North Americans like us and it seems such a leisurely way to travel. When we arrive in the Big Apple the sun is shining and we’re so excited we elect to walk to our hotel, the Salisbury, on 57th street (about 20 blocks).
By now we have mastered traveling light and our one small backpack is light as we slowly make our way through Times Square and up Broadway. We are dazzled, delighted, and determined to see as much as we can in the short time we are here. When we finally arrive at the Salisbury we are thrilled with our suite on the 15th floor. This is a very comfortable older hotel, well located and directly across the street from Carnegie Hall. This is a bit of a splurge for us but we are celebrating a significant anniversary, not to mention our first visit to New York!

Boston Deluge

2009-08-29T12:44:00.000-07:00

It has poured rain all night and as there are no signs of it letting up we decide to do some sightseeing in spite of the wet! We haven’t been in Boston for 32 years and want to reacquaint ourselves with this gracious historic city that is buzzing with today’s funeral of Senator Edward Kennedy. We are soaked to the skin by noon as the wind keeps turning our borrowed umbrellas inside out so we head back to the house for dry clothing. We are so grateful not to be riding in rain that walking in rain seems quite pleasant! In the afternoon our nephew, who is doing research at MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology), takes us on an exclusive tour of the campus. We are delighted that all of the buildings at MIT are connected by tunnels or covered walkways right from the subways stations, which enables us to walk freely regardless of the weather.
Our visit to MIT includes a few very enjoyable hours at the MIT Museum, two floors of galleries with fascinating exhibits. The museum documents what an MIT education involves past and present, in addition to stimulating an understanding and appreciation of the meanings of scientific and technological innovation in the modern world. We were dazzled by the eye-popping holography collection, amused by the robotic devices (including Kismet), and intrigued by the kinetic sculptures of Arthur Ganson.
As we freshen up before dinner the rain begins to ease but we still take the car the short distance to “Not Just Your Average Joe” restaurant for an excellent dinner. We are leaving the motorcycle in our nephew’s cozy garage and taking off to New York in the morning. We regret that we haven’t more time to visit with our nephew and his family in Boston but Marlene’s portion of this adventure is quickly coming to a close and we’ve got to go, as we’ve planned to spend our 35th wedding anniversary in New York!

Disappointment

2009-08-28T12:39:00.001-07:00

Our disappointment with Kittery and the Rodeway Inn in particular set the tone for our ride today. We’re feeling a bit bummed out - perhaps the size of our dream was unrealistic, perhaps we’re getting tired of this journey, or perhaps our second approaching Atlantic hurricane is simply depressing our spirits. Although we haven’t far to travel on the very congested Hwy1 to the Harley dealer in North Hampton, NH we are not only a little late arriving, but also the bike service takes longer than we expect and is wickedly expensive. We’re never sure what to expect from HD service centers that we are unfamiliar with, as the level of service and the cost of service varies greatly from location to location. We do not see many motorcycles on Hwy 1, which parallels the Turnpike all the way to Boston, certainly North America offers much better riding opportunities than these busy roads on the eastern Seaboard.
The online directions we downloaded to our nephew’s home in Arlington (part of metro Boston) prove correct and despite the traffic, the threat of rain, and some disappointments in sights and stops, we arrive safely. We don’t have a GPS on the motorcycle and usually don’t miss it because we rarely ride in large cities such as Boston. Our chief joy riding in North America is the many wide-open spaces and roads so we try to maximize our pleasure by riding the open road and traveling the crowded city places by public transit or car. We don’t arrive a minute too soon because just as Barry parks the bike in the garage the rain from the second Atlantic hurricane of the trip begins to fall.

Singing The Blues

2009-08-27T06:15:00.000-07:00

It is wonderful to wake to a blue sky and although the air has a cold edge we get an earlier than usual start as we’ve gained an hour (Atlantic to Eastern Time). We’re riding Hwy 1 down the coast of Maine enjoying the shoreline whenever it’s visible and the ambiance of New England. There are many beautiful old houses and it is much more populated than our Maritimes but the beautiful scenery is similar.
With true New England economy every other town has incorporated the word “port” into its place name. The highway is more of a commercial strip than a thoroughfare as the majority of the homes are also businesses providing every service or product imaginable. We decide if we ever decide to open a home-occupation business we will come back here for ideas. Needless to say this is a road for leisure travel only, Barry is practicing his slow riding techniques and being ever so vigilant for all the drivers who are making left-hand turns across double solid lines! The Maine Turnpike, I-95, parallels the coast highway and we concede that the toll would be well worth it if we were intent on reaching a destination quickly.
We particularly enjoy the awesome new bridge over the Penobscot River at Verona and the area around Belfast. As we get closer to Camden the traffic thickens and we crawl through the town. The next town, Rockport, also has a traffic snarl and Hwy 1 winds through a number of very poorly signed one-way streets. We get all turned around and end up on the wrong highway, a harbinger of what is to come!
The further south we travel the worse the traffic gets and after we crawl through places like Wiscasset we ride the by-pass around Portland. We encounter the inevitable roadwork and are shunted onto a detour around Biddleford that not only takes us miles from Hwy 1 but then confuses us so badly we end up inland 15 miles from the coast! We’re grateful we had a great fish/shrimp lunch earlier and we’ve allowed lots of time for this sight-seeing trip.
As we approach Kittery, Marlene starts to get excited as this town is known for its expansive outlet mall. A brief glimpse is all she gets, however, as this community is a motorist’s nightmare, so crisscrossed by turnpikes, etc. that it has lost all its integrity as a community. We stop not once but twice for directions to augment our maps and still barely find our motel. Interestingly our second stop is at Kittery Town Hall where even they have no idea where our motel is and have to get out their huge detailed community maps to help us.
To make matters worse, when we finally arrive at this very poorly-signed Rodeway Inn, across the street from the new Fire Station, we wish we hadn’t found it! It should not be operating as it is undergoing renovations. In addition to being dangerous, it is the worst motel we’ve encountered on this trip and definitely a black-eye for the Choice Hotel chain. Our decision to stay reflects how defeated we’re feeling and that we’ve missed the cancellation time. A further dismay is that we have to get back on the bike and ride to find something to eat. It’s ironic how a day that began with such blue skies and promise has just left us singing the blues.

Ugh! Fog Again!

2009-08-26T05:41:00.000-07:00

There must be some endearing qualities of fog but we’ve yet to find them. We have a reservation with Bay Ferries at 8:30 to make the three hour crossing from Digby NS to St. John NB but for some nefarious reason we have to be at the terminal an hour ahead. We’ve heard this ferry could use some improvements so you can imagine our mood as we stand on the asphalt beside the bike in the cold fog and count down 60 minutes, recalling that we prepaid $120 for this experience! You’re not allowed access to the vehicle deck during the voyage and we can well see why, as it has no windows, a dreadful smell, a wet uneven deck with huge puddles, and rusty condensation drips everywhere (we pity anyone with a pet aboard).
We’re grateful the upper decks are quite pleasant with all the amenities of our older BC Ferries, including one we don‘t have, and that is a young employee from the New Brunswick Museum who does small interpretation sessions in the lounge for interested travelers. Once again we remind ourselves that we’ll have more tolerance for the BC Ferries after our experiences with even less value-for-money ferries this summer.
Interestingly the Atlantic newspapers carried an editorial (covering-his-ass letter) by the CEO of Marine Atlantic (NFLD ferries) explaining all the difficulties the company’s encountered this summer and asking for the public’s understanding. The East Coast sincerely promises outstanding natural and historical attractions year round but weather, even in summer, is unpredictable so like many places that rely on tourism to shore up faltering local economies, access and affordability to and from play a huge part.
There are a number of homeward bound Americans on the ferry who are disappointed they didn’t see any moose but still hopeful they’ll see a whale in the Bay of Fundy. They remain disappointed as the damnable fog intensifies. We are content in this regard as we have seen many whales from a distance and no moose at any distance! St. John is obliterated by fog and our first hour of riding on HWY 1 is miserable and cold.
By the time we reach St. Stephen which shares the border crossing with Calais, Maine the fog has lifted to a high overcast and it is much warmer. Carmen’s Diner beckons as we’re trying to forget our breakfast on the ferry. Carmen’s is busy with locals, always a good sign, and Marlene is particularly pleased with her Hot Pork sandwich. A good road meal always improves the trip and we wait patiently at the border until we can happily set off on Hwy 9 to Beddington. The coast is still fogged in so Hwy 1 which offers sporadic views of the ocean at best is not a good choice yet.
By the time we reach Cherryfield, the blueberry capital of North America, the coast highway is sufficiently clear enough to ride. We’ve never seen fields of low bush blueberries (only high bush) and we watch the harvesters with their long scoops speedily picking. We are disappointed to see that the migrant workers’ accommodation here is about as dismal as that in California.
This northeast corner of Maine is mostly wooded, rolling country, good for hunting, and very much like our Maritimes. Hwy 1 follows a serpentine bumpy alignment that we hope will be offset by the view of the coast. It looks like it may rain by the time we pull in to the Comfort Inn in Ellsworth. We are all smiles, however, as Barry is back in the country of cheap Miller beer and Ellsworth has a L.L. Bean outlet right beside the motel - wonder who planned that?

Fundy Shore and Annapolis Valley

2009-08-25T18:16:00.000-07:00

Fog again, the only thing that keeps us from total discouragement is the forecast that promises the fog will lift by noon. We’ve so many places we want to see today that we set out regardless. Our first destination is Bear River a small village nestled in a deep valley that have some waterfront buildings on stilts to keep above the high tides. The rivers here on the Bay of Fundy are tidal, wide, high-banked and muddy ugly when the tide is out but quite pretty when the tide is in. The entire Bay of Fundy area has dramatic 9’ or more tide changes.
We ride Hwy 1 (the old coast highway) to our second stop, the riverside town of Annapolis Royal which is busy with tourists. The fog has lifted so we head to the impressive Annapolis river Causeway & Tidal Generating Station. It is the only saltwater generating station in North America and the visitor centre offers displays and scenic views of both the tidal flow and the surrounding area.
We continue on Hwy 1 to the Port Royal National Historic Site, one of the most important in North America. In the 17th century, a European country could claim a territory in the New World if it had a year-round settlement there. To do this for France, fur trader Pierre Du Gua de Monts and explorer Samuel de Champlain set up camp in 1604 on Île Ste. Croix, a tiny island on the current Maine-New Brunswick border. But snow came in October, and food and firewood ran short. Of 79 colonists, 35 died of scurvy during that winter.
The next year, the colony moved across the Bay of Fundy to a sheltered bay, Port Royal. Champlain built Habitation, a compound of log houses protected by a stockade. It flourished until 1613 when English raiders from Virginia looted and burned it. The Habitation stands again at Port Royal, reconstructed in 1940 from Champlain's drawings. The colonists today are actor/guides in linen blouses and wooden clogs.
When the settlement was rebuilt a few years after the raids it was built at Annapolis Royal. When Acadia (the French settlers called their country after the mythical land of plenty, Arcadia) was ceded to Britain, Annapolis Royal became Canada's first seat of power, peopled by a few hundred Scottish soldiers and a few thousand French farmers, who created arable land, building dikes with locks that drained the coastal marshes and kept out the saltwater tides. As tensions rose before the outbreak of the Seven Years War (1756-1763), the British, who had gained the region from French, demanded that Acadians take an oath of allegiance to the Crown. When they didn't, declaring themselves neutral, the British, starting in 1755, rounded up as many as 10,000 people, confiscated their property, and deported them. Years later when the Acadians were finally allowed to return, some of them came back to the southwest shores of Nova Scotia.
We ride to the end of the road which faces the ferry port at Digby across the Digby Gut. Then it’s back to Annapolis Royal for a last look. There are many attractions in this picturesque town that we miss, hope we’ll get back some day.
Our final ride of the day is the Digby Neck. We’re riding Hwy 217, the Islands Scenic drive along the very long narrow peninsula known as the Digby Neck. The road winds through small coastal villages nestled into coves complete with fishing weirs and fishing boats. Our road ends at East Ferry where we could take ferries, first to Long Island and then to Brier Island but our time is up.
We end our visit to Digby by walking down to the bustling wharf area to O’Neill’s for a scallop and seafood dinner, with fresh blueberry pie for dessert. Digby is the home port to a large scallop fleet and a fascinating place if like us, you like to watch a working fishing port.

Fog Witch Reigns

2009-08-24T13:44:00.000-07:00

We have to ride into Yarmouth to Privateers Sou’west Harley Davidson as the motorcycle’s throttle cable is loose and the bike is stalling occasionally - perhaps all the rainy, damp weather is taking its toll. Yarmouth is over 100 kms away and there is a heavy wet fog today. We ride the inland 101 Hwy and manage to stay fairly dry in our rain clothes.
While the bike is being fixed we go for lunch to Hickory Hut next door where Marlene tries her first Rappie Pie. Rappie pie is a traditional stewed chicken and potato dish that the Acadians in South-Western Nova Scotia are historically famous for. Its name is derived from the French "patates râpées" meaning "grated potatoes". It is a unique recipe made by freshly grating potatoes and removing all the water. Then a hot broth made from chicken (or pork, beef, rabbit, etc.) is added to the potatoes, to replace the moisture. Then cubed meat and onions are layered with the grated potato mixture to make a baked casserole-like dish. It has an excellent taste but a very gelatinous texture that takes a bit of getting used too.
The return trip, after a quick look at Yarmouth in the fog, is along Hwy 1 which hugs the shore. We are on the Evangeline Route, Evangeline is the heroine of Longfellow’s poem that recalls the displacement of the Acadians. This southwestern part of Nova Scotia is the Acadian region and Hwy 1 (and many side roads) winds through well-kept pastoral villages that look out to sea. Many of the houses are connected to their barns. We’re not sure whether these people are particularly fond of their animals or if the winter weather is terrible or what other reasons may account for this interesting architecture. Although the fog witch dominates the landscape, we can still see some of the charm of this region that was settled by the Acadians as early as 1653, and resettled by returning Acadians from 1767 on, after their expulsion in 1755.

Hurricane Bill

2009-08-23T13:37:00.000-07:00

There is much wind and rain overnight which continues all morning. We enjoy a light breakfast in our room, as we’re booked into the Pines famous Sunday Brunch at noon, and watch the Hurricane Bill coverage on the TV. The brunch is scrumptious and the highlight of our day. Both the fresh scallops and the shrimp are cooked in either Sambuca or Tequila and are extraordinary.
The Digby area got about 70mm of rain and wind gusts up to 90 km/h during the morning. Hurricane Bill did not hit Nova Scotia head on but still managed to flood roads, knock out power to thousands, cancel flights and ferries, and drench everything. The storm surge arrived at the same time as high tide in the early afternoon which created some extremely rough seas on the eastern side of the province particularly at Peggy’s Cove, which has sustained some property damage too. Some of the roads we were on yesterday are washed out and now closed. What a difference severe weather can make!
It is a day for odd weather because in the afternoon the sun appears in Digby for awhile and we’re able to take in some of the warmth and have a short swim in the heated outside pool. There is some debris around and many flowers have been flattened but otherwise everything seems to have fared pretty well. Black clouds quickly fill the sky in the late afternoon but we’ve resigned ourselves to sitting this day out at the hotel anyway.

What Light Through Yonder Fog Bank Breaks

2009-08-22T13:30:00.000-07:00

When we awake this morning we make the same comment to each other “that had to be the best night’s sleep ever”. We reflect that the reason may have a lot to do with the shortage of sleep the night before on the ferry. We have enjoyed the Hotel Atlantica right down to our deluxe continental breakfast and reluctantly depart into the fog, hoping it clears before we reach the day’s first destination, Peggy’s Cove.
The fog persists as we travel Hwy 33 and what should have been a scenic ride through picturesque coastal villages is a disappointment. Peggy’s Cove, one of the most photographed locations in Canada, with its weathered fish sheds, colourful fishing boats, and vast rocky shoreline, is alive with tourists despite the fog! Peggy’s Cove is a little too titivate (over decorated) for us; we prefer the less-visited outports of Newfoundland. We snap a few photos at the lighthouse, that is now a post office, and proceed along Hwy 333 which winds its way through the fog beside beautiful St. Margaret’s Bay. At Tantallon we surrender to the fog and decide to save time and gas by taking the inland bypass Hwy 103 to the Mahone Bay exit.
Naturally it is sunny and hot on the inland highway. The humidity is 100% so even though the temperature is in the high 20’s, it feels like the high 30’s. The sunshine beams down on us all the way to spectacular Mahone Bay where we stop for lunch and chat with a local couple who also motorcycle. Hurricane Bill is the hot topic of the day and when we tell our new acquaintances of our plans to stay in Bridgewater that evening they strongly suggest we re-consider our plans as severe rain and wind are predicted on our proposed route tomorrow and they think we would be safer on the other side of province.
We decide to take their advice, find the nearest Nova Scotia Information office, luckily cancel one reservation and make another reservation at the hotel in Digby where we were headed in a day anyway. It means a longer day of riding today but we’re feeling less anxious about the impending weather. We’ve escaped serious “acts of God” before: arriving in Malaysia two days after the Tsunami in 2004 and leaving the Bahamas just hours before Hurricane Noel in 2007, and we’d like to keep it that way!
From Mahone Bay we head to Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, because the entire Old Town is comprised of restored buildings that preserve the Atlantic fishing and seafaring heritage. It’s hot, hot, hot, but no complaints from us as we realise that the weather is about to change drastically. We enjoy a delightful (but warm) walk through this historic town that has many outstanding attractions including the Bluenose II and a beautiful golf course. Before leaving Lunenberg we ride a side road to a tiny peninsula and beautiful Blue Rocks, an outport like Peggy’s Cove-before-it-became-so-popular.
Our change in plans means riding Hwy 3 to Bridgewater, then Hwy 103 to Liverpool, then Hwy 8 across the province (sounds long but turns out to be a fairly scenic 150 kms) to the impressive Digby Pines Resort in Digby. Its been a long day but we make sure the bike is as ready for the impending weather as possible before we head for bed.

Getting Around

2009-08-21T12:50:00.000-07:00

We watch the sunrise on the Atlantic and touch the road in Nova Scotia about 6:30. The morning is clear but cold on Hwy 4 which takes us down the east and opposite side of Bras d’Or Lake than our ride to North Sydney a few weeks ago. The road surface is not as good as the TCH (on the west side of this huge lake) but it is being repaved (deconstructed), as we discover much to our discomfort. We wanted to ride Hwy 4 because it hugs the lakeshore and goes through a number of very interesting Cape Breton villages, however, if we had known the long sections of gravel (actually fist-sized blasted-sharp stones) we would have to endure we would have passed on the scenery. The early morning air was blue with Barry’s curses and we were more than ready for a big breakfast by the time we finally crossed the Canso Causeway.
Our intention was to ride the Eastern Shore road, Hwy 7, but because of the jolts we’ve suffered already, the coolness of the day, and our tiredness, we decide to stay on the TCH all the way to Halifax. To our delight the Atlantica Hotel has our room ready when we arrive at 1:30 and after showers and a little rest we are ready to see the city. The excellent Atlantica Hotel is easy to find on Robie Street, very near the Halifax Citadel, and within walking distance of all the downtown attractions.
We take ourselves on a walking tour through the exquisite Victorian Public Gardens down to the always bustling harbour with its historic buildings and sweeping ocean views. We begin at the Pier 21 National Historic site, also the cruise ship pavilion, and then walk northwest along the boardwalk, through Bishop’s Landing, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, and the Historic Properties. The friendly boardwalk which offers first-class hotels, shops, restaurants, pubs, and a variety of attractions, is a favourite stroll for residents of Halifax and visitors. We wile away a couple of hours but could easily have spent the day before slowly trudging up hill to the Citadel, the mighty fortress that has stood watch over the city for more than two centuries.
Our hotel, on the corner of Robie and Quinpool Streets has every amenity close by. As Halifax is multi-ethnic we debate the merits of Chinese, Japanese, Italian, and Greek food before settling on a delicious dinner at “It’s All Greek To Me”. Halifax is a charming small city with a fascinating history that we can visit again and again.

Argentia Ferry

2009-08-20T12:43:00.000-07:00

We ride the TCH from St. John’s to Whitbourne, then Hwy 100 to Argentia. It rained hard this morning but by noon when we pull out of St. John’s the precipitation is on hold. Hwy 100 is part of the Cape Shore route that will take you to the old French capital of Newfoundland at Placentia. The Castle Hill National Historic Site there is the remains of an old French fort from the time when the French and the English battled for military domination in North America. It is well worth visiting and not just for the magnificent view of the surrounding area.
This route will also take you to Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve - a bird lover’s paradise. The Reserve is most accessible and a spectacular seabird colony but we have found the stink to be overwhelming. On a 200-foot-high sea stack just 50 feet from the cliff-top viewing point you can see northern gannets, razorbills, murres (turs), arctic terns, and other seabirds. We’re sure there must be puffins too, as you see their distinctive beaks everywhere else in Newfoundland.
The overcast sky gradually drops as we ride and by the time we arrive at our ferry, the Smallwood, everything is in the fog. There have been so many ferry problems this season it looks like all our fellow passengers are there well ahead of the 90 minute requirement, as we are. As we dismount two young men pull up behind us, one of whom is yelling, “Right between me eyes, he stung me right between me eyes.” He is sporting quite a large red spot on the bridge of his nose where a wasp just stung him despite the fog. We commiserate with him, however, we later spy him in the lounge killing the pain with several cocktails. We’re going to miss these boisterous Newfies!
To our surprise the ferry starts loading at least 90 minutes before departure but it’s a slow process and even though it is raining through the fog by then, the 35 or so motorcycles are loaded last. Once aboard we race the other bikers to grab the four tie-downs that are necessary to keep the motorcycle stable for the frequently rough crossing. Today, however, we are grateful that the Atlantic is quite smooth (compared to a less-than-pleasant experience some years ago when the sea was not).
We settle our luggage away in our sleeping area (a dormitory sleeper not unlike a train sleeping car) and head to the almost-full lounge (this trip takes 14 hours after all). There is a two man band that does a decent job of Johnny Cash, maritime folk songs, and Newfoundland favourites (Newfies are quick to point out that their province is not part of the Maritimes).
We dine early as we’re not sure how digestible supper will be and we have a very early start in the morning as the ferry is scheduled to dock at 6:00 am. The fog lifts in the evening so we brave the wind out on deck for a few crazy minutes, never losing our grip on the railings. After that experience, we understand how the Atlantic could blow you overboard in rougher seas.

History Is Just Being In The Right Place At The Right Time

2009-08-19T11:30:00.000-07:00

Yikes, almost time to disembark from Newfoundland. The motorcycle, named Bliss and nicknamed Blister (especially after this trip) is not feeling blissful. Its been drenched with rain sitting outside Gene’s house and while its fairly clean, the rain has seeped into every possible opening and the seat upholstery is very damp. Barry is concerned about the lock on the Tourpack which is stuck and inoperable. The Harley dealer here isn’t much help and we haven’t time to wait for a new lock to be installed.
Barry has kept himself busy in quiet moments with saddle soap and mink oil so our leathers, finally dry, are looking almost brand-new. We keep updated on the weather - overcast, muggy but cool today; there is a hurricane warning for the eastern seaboard ! We can’t believe our luck and Marlene is ready to sacrifice all her alcohol for the rest of the trip to the weather gods.
Newfoundland is a unique experience and the Department of Tourism has really gotten that information out this year with its TV advertisements and Traveller’s Guide “Lost and Found” that Marlene regrets we’ll not be able to pack home with us. The perennial problems of any destination with a short tourist season remain: the Marine Atlantic ferry system is expensive and unreliable; good accommodation must be booked ahead; car rentals are expensive, difficult to get, and must be reserved; the weather is fickle; and many of the roads are in poor condition.
On the plus side, this beautiful province hidden away on the east coast of Canada, for many years a well-kept secret, is enchanting visitors from all over the world. The Newfoundlanders, born to a harsh environment where survival depended on cooperation and hospitality, extend their friendliness to all. If we have any advise it is: don’t come to Newfoundland with too many expectations other than to expect the unexpected. Our best days here are when we give ourselves time to see what we see. Remember that historically nobody came to live on this rock on purpose, all civilization of this province can be attributed to the sea. Legends abound in this magical place that just happened to be safe harbour.

Cookin’ Up A Scoff

2009-08-18T11:28:00.000-07:00

Cooking is an enduring craft in Newfoundland for which we’re very grateful. It is raining and cold today, a pitiful day for weather! But with true Newfie spirit we reflect that it’s a good day for sipping coffee or strong tea and nibbling something sweet. St. Johns’ has its share of high-end coffee shops and we stop by Coffee Matters near Hotel Newfoundland to fortifly ourselves with a fancy brew. It is a visit-the-relatives-until -you-drop day so Barry and Gene have the drop-in agenda planned and Marlene tags along. Everyone we visit reminisces about Barry’s Mom, an outport woman with the gracious ways of the finest of ladies, who served a memorable tea in her parlour. This is one of her heritage recipes.

Mrs Hiscock’s Cherry Tea Cookies
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup butter
1 tsp vanilla
½ cup milk
2 cups flour
2 tsp baking powder
Pinch of salt
1 cup cherries (glace, dried or maraschino) cut into halves

This recipe does not come with a method as it comes from a time when it was assumed the cook had enough sense to bake cookies! So you follow the basic method of creaming the sugar, butter, eggs, and vanilla first; then alternating the dry ingredients and milk as you mix them in. Drop the cookies onto an ungreased cookie sheet or parchment and place ½ cherry on top. Bake about 10 minutes at 350F.

Bidgood’s

2009-08-17T11:25:00.000-07:00

David cannot return to Vancouver before we make a trip to Bidgood’s in Goulds to stock up on traditional Newfoundland foods. Bidgood’s is a family business that combines a grocery store, a bakery, a craft shop and a small café called The Mug Up that has prepared Newfie specialities onsite for more than 50 years. It is a fascinating store that will even package and ship your purchases anywhere in the world.
We pass on flipper pie, moose, and corned beef but load up on fishcakes, sweet hard bread, partridge berry jam and cakes, molasses raisin bread, and Screech.
Barry will be back before we leave to get more salted cod fish and fat back for the requisite meals of fish an‘brewis we indulge ourselves in Newfoundland. Because we’re on the motorcycle, we won’t be taking much with us including Barry’s favourite cod tongues and cheeks. Bidgood’s offer Screech flavoured coffees, many varieties of berry teas, and attractively packaged jams and sauces made with blueberries, partridgeberries, gooseberries, and bake apples. These berries are also available fresh in season and frozen year round. There are even wines produced in Newfoundland along with the Screech and local beers in the liquor department.
Six of us squeeze ourselves into Gene’s small car to bid David a bittersweet goodbye at the airport. We’ve had a wonderful time showing David the sights we love and seeing them through his eyes. The relatives are assured that the Newfie blood runs strong in him and we’re sure he will come again.

Long May Your Big Jib Draw

2009-08-16T11:22:00.000-07:00

Happy 60th Birthday Barry! Yesterday was a long day as we managed to put almost 400 kms on our rental car but when you only have a car for 2 days, you drive it. After a traditional Sunday breakfast of Fish an’ Brewis (boiled salt cod, soaked hard bread, scrunchins, and coffee) we make a quick trip to Costco for the rest of our birthday supper supplies (St. John‘s Costco is a good place to buy books by Newfie authors and prints by local artists).
No visit to St. John’s is complete without a trip to Cape Spear and the oldest surviving lighthouse in Newfoundland which is located at the most easterly point of land in North America. The site has been restored to its 1839 appearance and is surrounded by spectacular scenery where you can see whales, seabirds, and icebergs in season. David is intrigued by the direct flush toilet - an outhouse that overhangs the steep cliff where one would have to be very careful on a gusty day! Most of the fishing sheds on the stages have direct flush toilets too but these traditional toilets aren’t much used any more.
During WW 2 there was a coastal defence battery at Cape spear to protect the entrance to St. John’s harbour. Today the underground passages are great places for children to run around and the bunkers and gun barrels provide a sheltered view of the ocean - complete with whales! Even on nice days like today it is windy and fresh at the cape.
We return to the city via Maddox Cove and Petty Harbour, a very charming coastal village very close to St. John’s that has often been a movie location. Petty Harbour gets its name from the Basque word “Pettite”. Many place names in Newfoundland are bastardized Portuguese, Basque, or French words reflecting the fishing heritage of these shore communities.
Barry has anticipated this special birthday and chose the menu long ago: BBQ steak with all the trimmings and lots of beer! We drink our Quidi Vidi favourites, Eric’s Red and QV. The weather cooperates and we reflect on the miles we rode to be here today and declare it all worth the blood, sweat, and tears!

Out Around the Bay.

2009-08-15T11:16:00.000-07:00

We pack a large picnic and try to get away early as we’re driving around part of both Conception and Trinity Bays to the little outport towns where Barry’s ancestors and relatives came from. Leaving St. John’s we follow Route 60, also called the Admiral’s Coast Route from Manuels to Colliers. Barry is outnumbered by would-be photographers so is pulling over whenever David or Marlene request a picture stop (and there are many as Marlene is particularly enjoying the novelty of car travel)!
Barry’s parents owned a tavern in Kelligrews when he was a boy so that is our first stop. We are amazed at all the development in these shoreline communities close to St. John’s, that are now collectively referred to as Conception Bay South. Although the tavern has long been demolished the stories remain, as does the circular drive around the former premises. Barry finds the brook where he spent many carefree summer days, swimming, trouting, and skipping the smooth shale stones so common here. We hike up the brook a ways as Barry reminisces. It is a lovely peaceful natural spot and we reflect that everyone should have a childhood place like this that they can revisit, even if only in memories.
At Colliers we head north on the Baccalieu trail, Hwy 70 to Brigus, a perfect pearl of an outport village that retains much of its 19th century charm. Brigus’ Hawthorne Cottage, a National Historic site, preserves the birthplace of its most famous son, Captain Bob Bartlett, the ice pilot who guided Peary to within striking distance of the North Pole. After a stroll through some of the historic building we head to Country Corner café for lunch. This small restaurant and gift shop is justly famous for its great food especially blueberry delectables. We salivate over the moose stew and pea soup being served to others before ordering huge bowls of fish chowder with hot tender scones. The highlight of the meal is generous pieces of hot blueberry crumble, slathered with blueberry ice cream, and topped with warm blueberry sauce. It’s a hot meal for such a warm day but not to be missed!
A short walk over the rocky headland from Brigus is Cupids, the site of the first official English colony in Canada founded by John Guy in 1610. There is an archaeological dig in progress and a big celebration planned for the 400th anniversary next year. The first child born in English Canada was born here in 1613. Many outport towns, such as Brigus and Cupids, are an easy walk from one another but a much longer drive as roads for automobiles came centuries after walking paths and boat transportation.
We continue up the east side of Conception Bay stopping at the boardwalk in Harbour Grace where a statue of Amelia Earhart commemorates her solo flight across the Atlantic in 1932. At Victoria village, the childhood home of Barry’s Grandmother, we head across the barrens on Hwy 74 to Winterton, the ancestral home of the Hiscocks since 1753. The barrens refer to vast spaces of Newfoundland that are covered with scrubby windswept trees, berry bushes, ponds, and often fog. They are barren of much settlement but a favourite haunt of trout fishermen. Barry’s Mom and Grandmother, who lived together in Winterton for the 6 years Barry’s Dad was overseas during WW2, walked the 35kms across the barrens from Winterton to Victoria with Barry’s two older brothers on their backs to visit relatives and friends. They were remarkable women! Grandmother Hiscock, whose origin remains a mystery, was Innu but adopted and raised as a white child. Barry’s Mom, motherless from an early age, was a maid in Government House (pre-1949 when Newfoundland was still a British colony), before she married.
Until 1912, Winterton was known as Scilly Cove, and before that as Sugar Loaf Cove. It is a typical outport town albeit one of the oldest with headstones dating to 1700. There are many graveyards in Newfoundland, almost all on hillsides with awesome views of the sea, some carefully tended by family in the area and some gradually being overrun with blueberry and partridgeberry bushes. One can spend days exploring tombstones and their interesting inscriptions all over Newfoundland and we will visit many while we are on the rock. We search but do not find Barry’s Grandfather Ira’s tombstone. Ira, a giant of a man at 6’8”, is still remembered by some of the villagers for his hot temper. He once caught a man stealing his nets so Ira wrapped him in the net and threw him off the stage (wharf). The culprit survived the dunking and never messed with Ira again!
We spend some hours in Winterton walking the lanes and photographing all the Hiscock signs - a store, a lane, a root cellar, and many houses bear the moniker. Winterton is also the home of the Wooden Boat Museum of Newfoundland, which celebrates the skill and ingenuity of the town’s boat builders. The facility has full-size boats, constructed and used in the town, plus all the tools so it can offer boat building workshops like the “Build a Rodney” session in progress today. Living on the edge of the earth, the way of the water meant survival for the people of Newfoundland. So it is heart-warming to observe the wooden boat building traditions and skills revived and flourishing here.
There is wedding party coming out of the United Church and the bells are pealing joyfully. It is one of three weddings we will see on this sun-filled Saturday around the bay. We slowly motor down Hwy 80 through Heart’s Content, Heart’s Desire, and Heart’s Delight before stopping in New Harbour, the childhood home of Barry’s Mom and where he spent many happy summers. Barry recounts a grim memory from his childhood when he watched Pot head whales beings herded into the small bay, harpooned and slaughtered, then towed to the whaling station in Dildo, just around the headland. New Harbour is the site of one of the first cod fish farms in Newfoundland, this is a new chapter in the cod fishery - how things change me b’ye!
Dildo, despite its odd name, is a tidy town on beautiful Dildo Arm, with bustling government wharves, a 5 star B&B, and many attractions. We have enjoyed the fine accommodations provided by Inn By the Bay/George House B&B on previous trips. Most of the larger outport towns, like Dildo, have government wharves and the traditional pole stages, timbered slipways, and twine lofts are gradually rotting away, much to photographers’ dismay. Many of Barry’s maternal relatives continue to make their home here in Dildo and on a day such as this one we can understand why. Dildo has an Area Interpretation Centre that features Dorset Eskimo artifacts from Dildo Island, a Whaling and Sealing Museum, and Adventure Tours.

The Rooms

2009-08-13T11:14:00.000-07:00

It is a bit overcast today and as Barry and Marlene are a bit stiff from all the walking yesterday, it is a perfect day to visit The Rooms: St. John’s Provincial Museum, Archives, and Art Gallery. This magnificent building that soars into the city’s skyline, gets its name from the steep-roofed buildings on the shore of every fishing community where families came together to process their catch.
The Rooms, opened last year, combine striking 21st century technology with the past, and tell the story of Newfoundland and Labrador through art, artifacts, archaeology, architecture and archival records. It is also a wonderful place to eat as the café on level 4 has scrumptious food and a view like no other in the city. We sample the fish chowder, the fishcakes (salmon, halibut, and cod) and the seafood au gratin. If you don’t like seafood, Newfoundland cuisine offers moose and seal dishes, as well as tangy berry desserts. But there is a saying here “You can’t go wrong with the fish” and we have experienced the truth of that advice over and over.
We depart four hours later, very impressed with The Rooms. We regret that David will probably not have time to visit the Geo Centre, another attraction we can highly recommend. It is fitting that a province nicknamed The Rock has a world-class geological interpretation centre built into the rock of Signal Hills which forms many of the interior walls. We have managed to rent a car for the next two days (almost impossible in Newfoundland on short notice) and must pick it up

The Grand Concourse

2009-08-13T11:09:00.000-07:00

It is a gorgeous day and we are going on an extended hike that begins at the Battery, a couple of rows of brightly coloured, much photographed, old fishing houses that hug the side of the harbour. We are hiking the East Cape Trail as it winds its way to the Narrows and finally up to Signal Hill. The trail is one of many in the Grand Concourse: 120 kms of fine, well-marked walking trails with signs and storyboards, that connect the green spaces, historic buildings, and parks throughout the city. (The East Cape trail is not to be confused with the East Coast Trail which is a 10 hour wilderness trail from Signal Hill south through 30 historic communities).
The East Cape Trail is a favourite hiking trail as it has spectacular views, including the one from the top of Signal Hill, where Marconi received the first trans-Atlantic wireless message in 1901 in the city’s most famous landmark, Cabot Tower. The Signal Hill National Historic site has also been the site of harbour defences for St. John’s from the 18th century to the Second World War.
From Signal Hill we walk across the headland over to Cuckold’s Cove and eventually to the small fishing village of Quidi Vidi. We tour the Quidi Vidi Battery Provincial Historic site where guides dressed in period costume help you imagine the life of soldiers and their families in this once very remote spot on the edge of the North Atlantic during the early 1800’s. Quidi Vidi village is losing some of its quaintness as large homes are being built on the harbour although it’s still home to North America’s oldest cottage, Mallard Cottage, which is crammed with assorted antiques and collectibles.
Although we had a very large breakfast and fruit and trail mix along the way, we are ready for some barley sandwiches at the QV Brewery. We sit on the wharf patio enjoying our sample pack of beer, the sunshine, the busy harbour, and think that life is grand in Newfoundland! The Quidi Vidi Brewing Company makes six thirst-quenching varieties: 1892 Tradition Ale, Honey Brown, Honey Brown Light, Eric’s Red, QV & QV Light.

St.John’s

2009-08-12T11:04:00.000-07:00

David arrived safely, the gear is drying, the wind is blowing the clouds away, and what more can we ask? After a leisurely breakfast during which we catch up on the news from home and plan all the things we want to show to David (we haven’t seen David for 6 weeks and he hasn’t been to Newfoundland since he was a little boy), we set out on a walking tour of St. John’s. We begin at the Newfoundland Hotel and zig-zag along Water Street (the oldest street in North America), Duckworth Street, George Street (the most entertaining street in North America) and Harbour Drive.
While the other streets provide interesting shopping and trendy or traditional restaurants, George Street is all about pubs and places for live music. Regardless of the time of day or night you can tap your toes to traditional Newfoundland music heavily influenced by English/Irish music or seek out a variety of other entertainment to suit your fancy! We advise drinking but not eating on George Street. St. John’s is an ancient port favoured by fishermen, explorers, navies, and shippers for more than 400 years because it’s huge harbour is protected from the Atlantic ocean by a very narrow opening -The Narrows.
St. John’s has burned many times, much of it was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1892, but it’s a charming city whose brightly painted saltbox houses crowd the hills above the harbour. Almost all the historical buildings can be accessed on a walking tour that also passes many fine restaurants and shops. We stop at Ziggy’s Chip Wagon in front of Atlantic Place for a traditional lunch of chips, of course, that we take down to beautiful Harbourside Park to enjoy.
To complete our first day of sightseeing we hike up the hill to the Basilica of St. John the Baptist, which used to have the best view in the city (now usurped by The Rooms). The Basilica, a distinguished Roman Catholic cut stone sanctuary, begun in the 1840’s, has escaped the fires by being high on a hill and a judicious distance from the timbered buildings of the city. From the Basilica one can see the emerald lushness of the city with its lakes, parks, valleys, walking trails, and green spaces. A reward for all our walking is in order and we treat ourselves to delicious ice cream cones at Moo-Moo’s, a black and white spotted parlour with the best ice cream in the city.
Our days in St. John’s will be a balance of sight-seeing, visiting with Barry’s brother Gene & family, and simply enjoying the ambiance of this lovely old city. Tonight we’re eating our fresh cod caught in the Trinity Bight. Gene makes a Beer Batter for the fish and fries up salt pork into crispy morsels called Scrunchins that he pours over the fish just before eating. Delicious!

Perfect Storm

2009-08-11T18:02:00.000-07:00

We know we will awake to gentle rain as it has rained during the night and our grand old house has creaked with the wind. The breakfast menu this morning at Rolling Hills B&B is waffles with fresh blueberries and partridgeberries and whip cream. Yummy!
We’re not eager to leave but we are eager to get to Barry’s brother Gene and family in St. John’s about 260 kms away. Our wonderful host, Ed presents us with a huge piece of fresh cod to take with us - for Barry’s birthday, he says smiling. The food fishery is open which means that all Newfoundland residents may catch five fish a day for a set period. Newfoundlanders eagerly await the food fishery that occurs a couple of times a year because it provides one of their traditional foods and it means the cod stocks are very gradually coming back. All of our B&B hosts have been fishing in the evenings and limiting out within minutes. They scrupulously adhere to the limit because they have all had very sad experiences with over-fishing. But right now their freezers are brimming with fish and they’re generously giving it away!
The weather does not improve, in fact it gets ugly once we hit the TCH. If we weren’t expected by Gene we might seek shelter but decide to push on. By the time we get to Whitburne, we’re both wet through and miserable but we stop for a late lunch and revive a little. We are only 82 kms from our destination but the wind and the rain have intensified. We study one another carefully - for different reasons we really want to be at Gene’s and Marlene knows a secret that is a further compelling reason to keep going. Our oldest son David, is flying in from Vancouver tonight, to join us for 5 days in Newfoundland. It is a birthday surprise for Barry and a long awaited opportunity for David who hasn’t been here since he was a little boy. We manage to wobble out of the parking lot onto the highway- getting started in high wind is always tricky. Marlene plugs in her heated jacket, turns up the audio book in her Ipod and tries to imagine she is somewhere else. Barry fights the weather and the grooved pavement as some sections of the TCH are being repaved (although no crews are working today). There are no signs warning about uneven road surfaces or drops in road level and in these conditions he can’t see ahead so we ride very slowly. This is the second worst ride in our experience and the worst yet on this trip. We pass two vehicles in the ditch and really regret ever starting out this morning.
We finally arrive, completely soaked through all layers but safe. Gene is making his famous chilli for supper and the clothes dryer goes into action. David’s plane is delayed but still scheduled to land tonight and the world is unfolding as it should.

Random Berries

2009-08-10T17:52:00.000-07:00

Breakfast at Rolling Hills B&B is a delicious baked ham, cheese, bread, and eggs strata. We top it off with partridge berry muffins and extra coffee because we have an exploring day today in this part of Newfoundland we love so well and we’ll spend tonight at
Rolling Hills B&B again. Another beautiful day and Barry again consents to riding 4 kms of gravel road out to Fort Point Lighthouse. This is one of 23 staffed light stations in Newfoundland, although we have come for the magnificent views of Trinity Bight in the morning sunshine having already seen many of the 55 light stations in the province.
We ride into Trinity to view a few more historic buildings and take more pictures. Trinity is a walker’s delight whether you do it yourself or go on one of the guided tours. Barry is still not walking very comfortably so we keep our rambles short. Next we’re off on Hwy 239 to Bonaventure and New Bonaventure, two typical outport communities with active fisheries and interesting because two major films have been shot here. “Shipping News” was filmed in and around Trinity Bight, particularly New Bonaventure, and the miniseries “Random Passage” was filmed at a specially constructed site nearby. The Random Passage film site attracts many visitors because the buildings have remained and on Sundays entertainment is provided by various musicians and storytellers. The area is gorgeous today as one would expect a movie set to be and we enjoy picking blueberries for dessert on the hillside after our lunch.
New Bonaventure is a resettlement community that dates from the 50’s when the government encouraged Newfoundlanders who lived in isolated communities (without roads and services) to relocate. The people of Kerley’s Cove, Ireland Eye, and British Harbour all resettled in New Bonaventure but you can hike the highlands to their abandoned places past remnants of foundations, root cellars, and graves. We aren’t doing any hiking today but we do enjoy the scenery. On beautiful days like today we think we could easily live in Newfoundland but we have experienced the harsh realities of this climate even in the summer!
As this is not a heavy riding day we have lots of time to talk with both Newfoundlanders and fellow travellers although the Newfoundlanders are the most engaging and always make time to talk. In addition to the usual conversation topics we have heard about loves, lost loves, dreams, tragedies, and fears from people who moments before were strangers. For instance our gas attendant today tells us about her desire to visit her son and grandchildren in Fort McMurray but she has never flown and is afraid to. Marlene, who is “come from away” (CFA in Newfienese) sometimes finds the confidential level of the conversations disarming but Barry is in his element.
We round out our day with a superb cod fish dinner at the Dock Marina restaurant, a ramble out to the point, and wine in the sitting room with our amiable host and fellow guests.

Discovery Trail

2009-08-09T17:47:00.000-07:00

After a grand breakfast at Harbourview B&B we say a sad farewell to our fellow guests and our hosts (these are the kind of people who not only hug you when you leave but also watch and wave until you’re out of sight). We haven’t far to travel today which gives us time to visit the Ryan Premises National Historical site, the full-scale replica of John Cabot’s ship the Matthew, and a number of historic buildings in downtown Bonavista.
Then we’re off to Cape Bonavista to see the twin entrance sea cave called The Dungeon and the Cape Bonavista Lighthouse. Barry is feeling so mellow, must be the beautiful day, that he consents to riding 2 kms of gravel road to the sea caves and stacks of Spiller Cove. Once again we’re rewarded with a whale sighting!
The Discovery Trail refers to the roads on the Bonavista Peninsula which is one of the most historic parts of the province and certainly the most beautiful! From Bonavista we head to the equally stunning Trinity Bight and the historic communities of Trinity, Port Rexton, Dunfield, Bonaventure, etc. Trinity is world famous for its quaint village, the preservation of its historical buildings, and the Rising Tide Theatre that presents enduring Newfoundland dramas every night in the season. We sit around at the Dock Marina restaurant savouring the harbour traffic with our late lunch as we’re feeling tired today- yesterday’s rainy ride combined with a late night has taken its toll! We visit Hiscock House Provincial Historic site, one of some 50 architecturally significant buildings in Trinity before heading to Dunfield and the Rolling Hills B&B.
We chose Rolling Hills B&B because it is 6kms away from the tourist crowd of Trinity and for the highlands that provide easy walking and spectacular views. This B&B is perfect - simple elegance and very warm hospitality right in the heart of this tiny coastal village. The only downside is that we have to leave the village for supper as there are no food outlets or restaurants here.
Later in the evening our host, Ed joins us and the other guests in the sitting room where we sample his excellent homemade wine and beer. The other two couples have been to the theatre and are impressed with the calibre of the performance. We have seen Rising Tide performances on previous visits and can only agree with them. Many communities in Newfoundland have outstanding theatre seasons and they provide a entertaining way for visitors to learn about the history, quirks, humour, and dialects of this island.