Coast to Coast: Motorcycle Trip Across North America Summer 2009

A Journey Ends and Another Begins

2009-09-02T12:58:00.000-07:00

Marlene is flying home today from Logan Airport in Boston and Barry begins the much longer trip home on the motorcycle. Barry is determined to ride both ways across North America and Marlene is just as determined not to. More importantly we are both looking and heading in the same direction.

Whirlwind Tour

2009-09-01T12:57:00.000-07:00

We complete our visit to New York with the American Museum of Natural History, lunch at the Boathouse in Central Park, and the Empire State Building. Marlene even gets in an hour of speed shopping when Barry decides his legs can’t take it any more. We have found New York to be safe, friendly, easy to get around in by subway, and thoroughly wonderful. We are very tired and quiet on the train ride back to Boston, replaying all that we’ve seen in our memories.

Take My Hand, Take My Whole Life Too

2009-08-31T12:55:00.000-07:00

We aren’t able to describe all the places and things we saw today including: the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island from the Staten Island Ferry, Ground Zero, sensational Highline Park, Grand Central Station, the UN Plaza, and Rockefeller Center. Our advice is that you must see it for yourself, hopefully on such a beautiful, sunny day as this and be prepared to be awed. When we finally make it back to the hotel we have to soak our feet and give one another foot massages so we can walk again tomorrow! We chose the Salisbury Hotel for its proximity to Central Park, however, we only manage a short evening stroll before taking our weary bodies to bed. Although we were married 35 years ago, this entire day has been a celebration of the love, trust, partnership, tolerance and tenacity that has characterized all our journeys together. We are grateful we can celebrate is such a memorable city!

New York, New York

2009-08-30T12:52:00.000-07:00

We take our first trip on an Amtrak train from Boston’s South Station to New York’s Penn Station and enjoy the scenic route along the Eastern Seaboard very much. Train travel is a novelty for most North Americans like us and it seems such a leisurely way to travel. When we arrive in the Big Apple the sun is shining and we’re so excited we elect to walk to our hotel, the Salisbury, on 57th street (about 20 blocks).
By now we have mastered traveling light and our one small backpack is light as we slowly make our way through Times Square and up Broadway. We are dazzled, delighted, and determined to see as much as we can in the short time we are here. When we finally arrive at the Salisbury we are thrilled with our suite on the 15th floor. This is a very comfortable older hotel, well located and directly across the street from Carnegie Hall. This is a bit of a splurge for us but we are celebrating a significant anniversary, not to mention our first visit to New York!

Boston Deluge

2009-08-29T12:44:00.000-07:00

It has poured rain all night and as there are no signs of it letting up we decide to do some sightseeing in spite of the wet! We haven’t been in Boston for 32 years and want to reacquaint ourselves with this gracious historic city that is buzzing with today’s funeral of Senator Edward Kennedy. We are soaked to the skin by noon as the wind keeps turning our borrowed umbrellas inside out so we head back to the house for dry clothing. We are so grateful not to be riding in rain that walking in rain seems quite pleasant! In the afternoon our nephew, who is doing research at MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology), takes us on an exclusive tour of the campus. We are delighted that all of the buildings at MIT are connected by tunnels or covered walkways right from the subways stations, which enables us to walk freely regardless of the weather.
Our visit to MIT includes a few very enjoyable hours at the MIT Museum, two floors of galleries with fascinating exhibits. The museum documents what an MIT education involves past and present, in addition to stimulating an understanding and appreciation of the meanings of scientific and technological innovation in the modern world. We were dazzled by the eye-popping holography collection, amused by the robotic devices (including Kismet), and intrigued by the kinetic sculptures of Arthur Ganson.
As we freshen up before dinner the rain begins to ease but we still take the car the short distance to “Not Just Your Average Joe” restaurant for an excellent dinner. We are leaving the motorcycle in our nephew’s cozy garage and taking off to New York in the morning. We regret that we haven’t more time to visit with our nephew and his family in Boston but Marlene’s portion of this adventure is quickly coming to a close and we’ve got to go, as we’ve planned to spend our 35th wedding anniversary in New York!

Disappointment

2009-08-28T12:39:00.001-07:00

Our disappointment with Kittery and the Rodeway Inn in particular set the tone for our ride today. We’re feeling a bit bummed out - perhaps the size of our dream was unrealistic, perhaps we’re getting tired of this journey, or perhaps our second approaching Atlantic hurricane is simply depressing our spirits. Although we haven’t far to travel on the very congested Hwy1 to the Harley dealer in North Hampton, NH we are not only a little late arriving, but also the bike service takes longer than we expect and is wickedly expensive. We’re never sure what to expect from HD service centers that we are unfamiliar with, as the level of service and the cost of service varies greatly from location to location. We do not see many motorcycles on Hwy 1, which parallels the Turnpike all the way to Boston, certainly North America offers much better riding opportunities than these busy roads on the eastern Seaboard.
The online directions we downloaded to our nephew’s home in Arlington (part of metro Boston) prove correct and despite the traffic, the threat of rain, and some disappointments in sights and stops, we arrive safely. We don’t have a GPS on the motorcycle and usually don’t miss it because we rarely ride in large cities such as Boston. Our chief joy riding in North America is the many wide-open spaces and roads so we try to maximize our pleasure by riding the open road and traveling the crowded city places by public transit or car. We don’t arrive a minute too soon because just as Barry parks the bike in the garage the rain from the second Atlantic hurricane of the trip begins to fall.

Singing The Blues

2009-08-27T06:15:00.000-07:00

It is wonderful to wake to a blue sky and although the air has a cold edge we get an earlier than usual start as we’ve gained an hour (Atlantic to Eastern Time). We’re riding Hwy 1 down the coast of Maine enjoying the shoreline whenever it’s visible and the ambiance of New England. There are many beautiful old houses and it is much more populated than our Maritimes but the beautiful scenery is similar.
With true New England economy every other town has incorporated the word “port” into its place name. The highway is more of a commercial strip than a thoroughfare as the majority of the homes are also businesses providing every service or product imaginable. We decide if we ever decide to open a home-occupation business we will come back here for ideas. Needless to say this is a road for leisure travel only, Barry is practicing his slow riding techniques and being ever so vigilant for all the drivers who are making left-hand turns across double solid lines! The Maine Turnpike, I-95, parallels the coast highway and we concede that the toll would be well worth it if we were intent on reaching a destination quickly.
We particularly enjoy the awesome new bridge over the Penobscot River at Verona and the area around Belfast. As we get closer to Camden the traffic thickens and we crawl through the town. The next town, Rockport, also has a traffic snarl and Hwy 1 winds through a number of very poorly signed one-way streets. We get all turned around and end up on the wrong highway, a harbinger of what is to come!
The further south we travel the worse the traffic gets and after we crawl through places like Wiscasset we ride the by-pass around Portland. We encounter the inevitable roadwork and are shunted onto a detour around Biddleford that not only takes us miles from Hwy 1 but then confuses us so badly we end up inland 15 miles from the coast! We’re grateful we had a great fish/shrimp lunch earlier and we’ve allowed lots of time for this sight-seeing trip.
As we approach Kittery, Marlene starts to get excited as this town is known for its expansive outlet mall. A brief glimpse is all she gets, however, as this community is a motorist’s nightmare, so crisscrossed by turnpikes, etc. that it has lost all its integrity as a community. We stop not once but twice for directions to augment our maps and still barely find our motel. Interestingly our second stop is at Kittery Town Hall where even they have no idea where our motel is and have to get out their huge detailed community maps to help us.
To make matters worse, when we finally arrive at this very poorly-signed Rodeway Inn, across the street from the new Fire Station, we wish we hadn’t found it! It should not be operating as it is undergoing renovations. In addition to being dangerous, it is the worst motel we’ve encountered on this trip and definitely a black-eye for the Choice Hotel chain. Our decision to stay reflects how defeated we’re feeling and that we’ve missed the cancellation time. A further dismay is that we have to get back on the bike and ride to find something to eat. It’s ironic how a day that began with such blue skies and promise has just left us singing the blues.

Ugh! Fog Again!

2009-08-26T05:41:00.000-07:00

There must be some endearing qualities of fog but we’ve yet to find them. We have a reservation with Bay Ferries at 8:30 to make the three hour crossing from Digby NS to St. John NB but for some nefarious reason we have to be at the terminal an hour ahead. We’ve heard this ferry could use some improvements so you can imagine our mood as we stand on the asphalt beside the bike in the cold fog and count down 60 minutes, recalling that we prepaid $120 for this experience! You’re not allowed access to the vehicle deck during the voyage and we can well see why, as it has no windows, a dreadful smell, a wet uneven deck with huge puddles, and rusty condensation drips everywhere (we pity anyone with a pet aboard).
We’re grateful the upper decks are quite pleasant with all the amenities of our older BC Ferries, including one we don‘t have, and that is a young employee from the New Brunswick Museum who does small interpretation sessions in the lounge for interested travelers. Once again we remind ourselves that we’ll have more tolerance for the BC Ferries after our experiences with even less value-for-money ferries this summer.
Interestingly the Atlantic newspapers carried an editorial (covering-his-ass letter) by the CEO of Marine Atlantic (NFLD ferries) explaining all the difficulties the company’s encountered this summer and asking for the public’s understanding. The East Coast sincerely promises outstanding natural and historical attractions year round but weather, even in summer, is unpredictable so like many places that rely on tourism to shore up faltering local economies, access and affordability to and from play a huge part.
There are a number of homeward bound Americans on the ferry who are disappointed they didn’t see any moose but still hopeful they’ll see a whale in the Bay of Fundy. They remain disappointed as the damnable fog intensifies. We are content in this regard as we have seen many whales from a distance and no moose at any distance! St. John is obliterated by fog and our first hour of riding on HWY 1 is miserable and cold.
By the time we reach St. Stephen which shares the border crossing with Calais, Maine the fog has lifted to a high overcast and it is much warmer. Carmen’s Diner beckons as we’re trying to forget our breakfast on the ferry. Carmen’s is busy with locals, always a good sign, and Marlene is particularly pleased with her Hot Pork sandwich. A good road meal always improves the trip and we wait patiently at the border until we can happily set off on Hwy 9 to Beddington. The coast is still fogged in so Hwy 1 which offers sporadic views of the ocean at best is not a good choice yet.
By the time we reach Cherryfield, the blueberry capital of North America, the coast highway is sufficiently clear enough to ride. We’ve never seen fields of low bush blueberries (only high bush) and we watch the harvesters with their long scoops speedily picking. We are disappointed to see that the migrant workers’ accommodation here is about as dismal as that in California.
This northeast corner of Maine is mostly wooded, rolling country, good for hunting, and very much like our Maritimes. Hwy 1 follows a serpentine bumpy alignment that we hope will be offset by the view of the coast. It looks like it may rain by the time we pull in to the Comfort Inn in Ellsworth. We are all smiles, however, as Barry is back in the country of cheap Miller beer and Ellsworth has a L.L. Bean outlet right beside the motel - wonder who planned that?

Fundy Shore and Annapolis Valley

2009-08-25T18:16:00.000-07:00

Fog again, the only thing that keeps us from total discouragement is the forecast that promises the fog will lift by noon. We’ve so many places we want to see today that we set out regardless. Our first destination is Bear River a small village nestled in a deep valley that have some waterfront buildings on stilts to keep above the high tides. The rivers here on the Bay of Fundy are tidal, wide, high-banked and muddy ugly when the tide is out but quite pretty when the tide is in. The entire Bay of Fundy area has dramatic 9’ or more tide changes.
We ride Hwy 1 (the old coast highway) to our second stop, the riverside town of Annapolis Royal which is busy with tourists. The fog has lifted so we head to the impressive Annapolis river Causeway & Tidal Generating Station. It is the only saltwater generating station in North America and the visitor centre offers displays and scenic views of both the tidal flow and the surrounding area.
We continue on Hwy 1 to the Port Royal National Historic Site, one of the most important in North America. In the 17th century, a European country could claim a territory in the New World if it had a year-round settlement there. To do this for France, fur trader Pierre Du Gua de Monts and explorer Samuel de Champlain set up camp in 1604 on Île Ste. Croix, a tiny island on the current Maine-New Brunswick border. But snow came in October, and food and firewood ran short. Of 79 colonists, 35 died of scurvy during that winter.
The next year, the colony moved across the Bay of Fundy to a sheltered bay, Port Royal. Champlain built Habitation, a compound of log houses protected by a stockade. It flourished until 1613 when English raiders from Virginia looted and burned it. The Habitation stands again at Port Royal, reconstructed in 1940 from Champlain's drawings. The colonists today are actor/guides in linen blouses and wooden clogs.
When the settlement was rebuilt a few years after the raids it was built at Annapolis Royal. When Acadia (the French settlers called their country after the mythical land of plenty, Arcadia) was ceded to Britain, Annapolis Royal became Canada's first seat of power, peopled by a few hundred Scottish soldiers and a few thousand French farmers, who created arable land, building dikes with locks that drained the coastal marshes and kept out the saltwater tides. As tensions rose before the outbreak of the Seven Years War (1756-1763), the British, who had gained the region from French, demanded that Acadians take an oath of allegiance to the Crown. When they didn't, declaring themselves neutral, the British, starting in 1755, rounded up as many as 10,000 people, confiscated their property, and deported them. Years later when the Acadians were finally allowed to return, some of them came back to the southwest shores of Nova Scotia.
We ride to the end of the road which faces the ferry port at Digby across the Digby Gut. Then it’s back to Annapolis Royal for a last look. There are many attractions in this picturesque town that we miss, hope we’ll get back some day.
Our final ride of the day is the Digby Neck. We’re riding Hwy 217, the Islands Scenic drive along the very long narrow peninsula known as the Digby Neck. The road winds through small coastal villages nestled into coves complete with fishing weirs and fishing boats. Our road ends at East Ferry where we could take ferries, first to Long Island and then to Brier Island but our time is up.
We end our visit to Digby by walking down to the bustling wharf area to O’Neill’s for a scallop and seafood dinner, with fresh blueberry pie for dessert. Digby is the home port to a large scallop fleet and a fascinating place if like us, you like to watch a working fishing port.

Fog Witch Reigns

2009-08-24T13:44:00.000-07:00

We have to ride into Yarmouth to Privateers Sou’west Harley Davidson as the motorcycle’s throttle cable is loose and the bike is stalling occasionally - perhaps all the rainy, damp weather is taking its toll. Yarmouth is over 100 kms away and there is a heavy wet fog today. We ride the inland 101 Hwy and manage to stay fairly dry in our rain clothes.
While the bike is being fixed we go for lunch to Hickory Hut next door where Marlene tries her first Rappie Pie. Rappie pie is a traditional stewed chicken and potato dish that the Acadians in South-Western Nova Scotia are historically famous for. Its name is derived from the French "patates râpées" meaning "grated potatoes". It is a unique recipe made by freshly grating potatoes and removing all the water. Then a hot broth made from chicken (or pork, beef, rabbit, etc.) is added to the potatoes, to replace the moisture. Then cubed meat and onions are layered with the grated potato mixture to make a baked casserole-like dish. It has an excellent taste but a very gelatinous texture that takes a bit of getting used too.
The return trip, after a quick look at Yarmouth in the fog, is along Hwy 1 which hugs the shore. We are on the Evangeline Route, Evangeline is the heroine of Longfellow’s poem that recalls the displacement of the Acadians. This southwestern part of Nova Scotia is the Acadian region and Hwy 1 (and many side roads) winds through well-kept pastoral villages that look out to sea. Many of the houses are connected to their barns. We’re not sure whether these people are particularly fond of their animals or if the winter weather is terrible or what other reasons may account for this interesting architecture. Although the fog witch dominates the landscape, we can still see some of the charm of this region that was settled by the Acadians as early as 1653, and resettled by returning Acadians from 1767 on, after their expulsion in 1755.

Hurricane Bill

2009-08-23T13:37:00.000-07:00

There is much wind and rain overnight which continues all morning. We enjoy a light breakfast in our room, as we’re booked into the Pines famous Sunday Brunch at noon, and watch the Hurricane Bill coverage on the TV. The brunch is scrumptious and the highlight of our day. Both the fresh scallops and the shrimp are cooked in either Sambuca or Tequila and are extraordinary.
The Digby area got about 70mm of rain and wind gusts up to 90 km/h during the morning. Hurricane Bill did not hit Nova Scotia head on but still managed to flood roads, knock out power to thousands, cancel flights and ferries, and drench everything. The storm surge arrived at the same time as high tide in the early afternoon which created some extremely rough seas on the eastern side of the province particularly at Peggy’s Cove, which has sustained some property damage too. Some of the roads we were on yesterday are washed out and now closed. What a difference severe weather can make!
It is a day for odd weather because in the afternoon the sun appears in Digby for awhile and we’re able to take in some of the warmth and have a short swim in the heated outside pool. There is some debris around and many flowers have been flattened but otherwise everything seems to have fared pretty well. Black clouds quickly fill the sky in the late afternoon but we’ve resigned ourselves to sitting this day out at the hotel anyway.

What Light Through Yonder Fog Bank Breaks

2009-08-22T13:30:00.000-07:00

When we awake this morning we make the same comment to each other “that had to be the best night’s sleep ever”. We reflect that the reason may have a lot to do with the shortage of sleep the night before on the ferry. We have enjoyed the Hotel Atlantica right down to our deluxe continental breakfast and reluctantly depart into the fog, hoping it clears before we reach the day’s first destination, Peggy’s Cove.
The fog persists as we travel Hwy 33 and what should have been a scenic ride through picturesque coastal villages is a disappointment. Peggy’s Cove, one of the most photographed locations in Canada, with its weathered fish sheds, colourful fishing boats, and vast rocky shoreline, is alive with tourists despite the fog! Peggy’s Cove is a little too titivate (over decorated) for us; we prefer the less-visited outports of Newfoundland. We snap a few photos at the lighthouse, that is now a post office, and proceed along Hwy 333 which winds its way through the fog beside beautiful St. Margaret’s Bay. At Tantallon we surrender to the fog and decide to save time and gas by taking the inland bypass Hwy 103 to the Mahone Bay exit.
Naturally it is sunny and hot on the inland highway. The humidity is 100% so even though the temperature is in the high 20’s, it feels like the high 30’s. The sunshine beams down on us all the way to spectacular Mahone Bay where we stop for lunch and chat with a local couple who also motorcycle. Hurricane Bill is the hot topic of the day and when we tell our new acquaintances of our plans to stay in Bridgewater that evening they strongly suggest we re-consider our plans as severe rain and wind are predicted on our proposed route tomorrow and they think we would be safer on the other side of province.
We decide to take their advice, find the nearest Nova Scotia Information office, luckily cancel one reservation and make another reservation at the hotel in Digby where we were headed in a day anyway. It means a longer day of riding today but we’re feeling less anxious about the impending weather. We’ve escaped serious “acts of God” before: arriving in Malaysia two days after the Tsunami in 2004 and leaving the Bahamas just hours before Hurricane Noel in 2007, and we’d like to keep it that way!
From Mahone Bay we head to Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, because the entire Old Town is comprised of restored buildings that preserve the Atlantic fishing and seafaring heritage. It’s hot, hot, hot, but no complaints from us as we realise that the weather is about to change drastically. We enjoy a delightful (but warm) walk through this historic town that has many outstanding attractions including the Bluenose II and a beautiful golf course. Before leaving Lunenberg we ride a side road to a tiny peninsula and beautiful Blue Rocks, an outport like Peggy’s Cove-before-it-became-so-popular.
Our change in plans means riding Hwy 3 to Bridgewater, then Hwy 103 to Liverpool, then Hwy 8 across the province (sounds long but turns out to be a fairly scenic 150 kms) to the impressive Digby Pines Resort in Digby. Its been a long day but we make sure the bike is as ready for the impending weather as possible before we head for bed.

Getting Around

2009-08-21T12:50:00.000-07:00

We watch the sunrise on the Atlantic and touch the road in Nova Scotia about 6:30. The morning is clear but cold on Hwy 4 which takes us down the east and opposite side of Bras d’Or Lake than our ride to North Sydney a few weeks ago. The road surface is not as good as the TCH (on the west side of this huge lake) but it is being repaved (deconstructed), as we discover much to our discomfort. We wanted to ride Hwy 4 because it hugs the lakeshore and goes through a number of very interesting Cape Breton villages, however, if we had known the long sections of gravel (actually fist-sized blasted-sharp stones) we would have to endure we would have passed on the scenery. The early morning air was blue with Barry’s curses and we were more than ready for a big breakfast by the time we finally crossed the Canso Causeway.
Our intention was to ride the Eastern Shore road, Hwy 7, but because of the jolts we’ve suffered already, the coolness of the day, and our tiredness, we decide to stay on the TCH all the way to Halifax. To our delight the Atlantica Hotel has our room ready when we arrive at 1:30 and after showers and a little rest we are ready to see the city. The excellent Atlantica Hotel is easy to find on Robie Street, very near the Halifax Citadel, and within walking distance of all the downtown attractions.
We take ourselves on a walking tour through the exquisite Victorian Public Gardens down to the always bustling harbour with its historic buildings and sweeping ocean views. We begin at the Pier 21 National Historic site, also the cruise ship pavilion, and then walk northwest along the boardwalk, through Bishop’s Landing, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, and the Historic Properties. The friendly boardwalk which offers first-class hotels, shops, restaurants, pubs, and a variety of attractions, is a favourite stroll for residents of Halifax and visitors. We wile away a couple of hours but could easily have spent the day before slowly trudging up hill to the Citadel, the mighty fortress that has stood watch over the city for more than two centuries.
Our hotel, on the corner of Robie and Quinpool Streets has every amenity close by. As Halifax is multi-ethnic we debate the merits of Chinese, Japanese, Italian, and Greek food before settling on a delicious dinner at “It’s All Greek To Me”. Halifax is a charming small city with a fascinating history that we can visit again and again.

Argentia Ferry

2009-08-20T12:43:00.000-07:00

We ride the TCH from St. John’s to Whitbourne, then Hwy 100 to Argentia. It rained hard this morning but by noon when we pull out of St. John’s the precipitation is on hold. Hwy 100 is part of the Cape Shore route that will take you to the old French capital of Newfoundland at Placentia. The Castle Hill National Historic Site there is the remains of an old French fort from the time when the French and the English battled for military domination in North America. It is well worth visiting and not just for the magnificent view of the surrounding area.
This route will also take you to Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve - a bird lover’s paradise. The Reserve is most accessible and a spectacular seabird colony but we have found the stink to be overwhelming. On a 200-foot-high sea stack just 50 feet from the cliff-top viewing point you can see northern gannets, razorbills, murres (turs), arctic terns, and other seabirds. We’re sure there must be puffins too, as you see their distinctive beaks everywhere else in Newfoundland.
The overcast sky gradually drops as we ride and by the time we arrive at our ferry, the Smallwood, everything is in the fog. There have been so many ferry problems this season it looks like all our fellow passengers are there well ahead of the 90 minute requirement, as we are. As we dismount two young men pull up behind us, one of whom is yelling, “Right between me eyes, he stung me right between me eyes.” He is sporting quite a large red spot on the bridge of his nose where a wasp just stung him despite the fog. We commiserate with him, however, we later spy him in the lounge killing the pain with several cocktails. We’re going to miss these boisterous Newfies!
To our surprise the ferry starts loading at least 90 minutes before departure but it’s a slow process and even though it is raining through the fog by then, the 35 or so motorcycles are loaded last. Once aboard we race the other bikers to grab the four tie-downs that are necessary to keep the motorcycle stable for the frequently rough crossing. Today, however, we are grateful that the Atlantic is quite smooth (compared to a less-than-pleasant experience some years ago when the sea was not).
We settle our luggage away in our sleeping area (a dormitory sleeper not unlike a train sleeping car) and head to the almost-full lounge (this trip takes 14 hours after all). There is a two man band that does a decent job of Johnny Cash, maritime folk songs, and Newfoundland favourites (Newfies are quick to point out that their province is not part of the Maritimes).
We dine early as we’re not sure how digestible supper will be and we have a very early start in the morning as the ferry is scheduled to dock at 6:00 am. The fog lifts in the evening so we brave the wind out on deck for a few crazy minutes, never losing our grip on the railings. After that experience, we understand how the Atlantic could blow you overboard in rougher seas.

History Is Just Being In The Right Place At The Right Time

2009-08-19T11:30:00.000-07:00

Yikes, almost time to disembark from Newfoundland. The motorcycle, named Bliss and nicknamed Blister (especially after this trip) is not feeling blissful. Its been drenched with rain sitting outside Gene’s house and while its fairly clean, the rain has seeped into every possible opening and the seat upholstery is very damp. Barry is concerned about the lock on the Tourpack which is stuck and inoperable. The Harley dealer here isn’t much help and we haven’t time to wait for a new lock to be installed.
Barry has kept himself busy in quiet moments with saddle soap and mink oil so our leathers, finally dry, are looking almost brand-new. We keep updated on the weather - overcast, muggy but cool today; there is a hurricane warning for the eastern seaboard ! We can’t believe our luck and Marlene is ready to sacrifice all her alcohol for the rest of the trip to the weather gods.
Newfoundland is a unique experience and the Department of Tourism has really gotten that information out this year with its TV advertisements and Traveller’s Guide “Lost and Found” that Marlene regrets we’ll not be able to pack home with us. The perennial problems of any destination with a short tourist season remain: the Marine Atlantic ferry system is expensive and unreliable; good accommodation must be booked ahead; car rentals are expensive, difficult to get, and must be reserved; the weather is fickle; and many of the roads are in poor condition.
On the plus side, this beautiful province hidden away on the east coast of Canada, for many years a well-kept secret, is enchanting visitors from all over the world. The Newfoundlanders, born to a harsh environment where survival depended on cooperation and hospitality, extend their friendliness to all. If we have any advise it is: don’t come to Newfoundland with too many expectations other than to expect the unexpected. Our best days here are when we give ourselves time to see what we see. Remember that historically nobody came to live on this rock on purpose, all civilization of this province can be attributed to the sea. Legends abound in this magical place that just happened to be safe harbour.

Cookin’ Up A Scoff

2009-08-18T11:28:00.000-07:00

Cooking is an enduring craft in Newfoundland for which we’re very grateful. It is raining and cold today, a pitiful day for weather! But with true Newfie spirit we reflect that it’s a good day for sipping coffee or strong tea and nibbling something sweet. St. Johns’ has its share of high-end coffee shops and we stop by Coffee Matters near Hotel Newfoundland to fortifly ourselves with a fancy brew. It is a visit-the-relatives-until -you-drop day so Barry and Gene have the drop-in agenda planned and Marlene tags along. Everyone we visit reminisces about Barry’s Mom, an outport woman with the gracious ways of the finest of ladies, who served a memorable tea in her parlour. This is one of her heritage recipes.

Mrs Hiscock’s Cherry Tea Cookies
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup butter
1 tsp vanilla
½ cup milk
2 cups flour
2 tsp baking powder
Pinch of salt
1 cup cherries (glace, dried or maraschino) cut into halves

This recipe does not come with a method as it comes from a time when it was assumed the cook had enough sense to bake cookies! So you follow the basic method of creaming the sugar, butter, eggs, and vanilla first; then alternating the dry ingredients and milk as you mix them in. Drop the cookies onto an ungreased cookie sheet or parchment and place ½ cherry on top. Bake about 10 minutes at 350F.

Bidgood’s

2009-08-17T11:25:00.000-07:00

David cannot return to Vancouver before we make a trip to Bidgood’s in Goulds to stock up on traditional Newfoundland foods. Bidgood’s is a family business that combines a grocery store, a bakery, a craft shop and a small café called The Mug Up that has prepared Newfie specialities onsite for more than 50 years. It is a fascinating store that will even package and ship your purchases anywhere in the world.
We pass on flipper pie, moose, and corned beef but load up on fishcakes, sweet hard bread, partridge berry jam and cakes, molasses raisin bread, and Screech.
Barry will be back before we leave to get more salted cod fish and fat back for the requisite meals of fish an‘brewis we indulge ourselves in Newfoundland. Because we’re on the motorcycle, we won’t be taking much with us including Barry’s favourite cod tongues and cheeks. Bidgood’s offer Screech flavoured coffees, many varieties of berry teas, and attractively packaged jams and sauces made with blueberries, partridgeberries, gooseberries, and bake apples. These berries are also available fresh in season and frozen year round. There are even wines produced in Newfoundland along with the Screech and local beers in the liquor department.
Six of us squeeze ourselves into Gene’s small car to bid David a bittersweet goodbye at the airport. We’ve had a wonderful time showing David the sights we love and seeing them through his eyes. The relatives are assured that the Newfie blood runs strong in him and we’re sure he will come again.

Long May Your Big Jib Draw

2009-08-16T11:22:00.000-07:00

Happy 60th Birthday Barry! Yesterday was a long day as we managed to put almost 400 kms on our rental car but when you only have a car for 2 days, you drive it. After a traditional Sunday breakfast of Fish an’ Brewis (boiled salt cod, soaked hard bread, scrunchins, and coffee) we make a quick trip to Costco for the rest of our birthday supper supplies (St. John‘s Costco is a good place to buy books by Newfie authors and prints by local artists).
No visit to St. John’s is complete without a trip to Cape Spear and the oldest surviving lighthouse in Newfoundland which is located at the most easterly point of land in North America. The site has been restored to its 1839 appearance and is surrounded by spectacular scenery where you can see whales, seabirds, and icebergs in season. David is intrigued by the direct flush toilet - an outhouse that overhangs the steep cliff where one would have to be very careful on a gusty day! Most of the fishing sheds on the stages have direct flush toilets too but these traditional toilets aren’t much used any more.
During WW 2 there was a coastal defence battery at Cape spear to protect the entrance to St. John’s harbour. Today the underground passages are great places for children to run around and the bunkers and gun barrels provide a sheltered view of the ocean - complete with whales! Even on nice days like today it is windy and fresh at the cape.
We return to the city via Maddox Cove and Petty Harbour, a very charming coastal village very close to St. John’s that has often been a movie location. Petty Harbour gets its name from the Basque word “Pettite”. Many place names in Newfoundland are bastardized Portuguese, Basque, or French words reflecting the fishing heritage of these shore communities.
Barry has anticipated this special birthday and chose the menu long ago: BBQ steak with all the trimmings and lots of beer! We drink our Quidi Vidi favourites, Eric’s Red and QV. The weather cooperates and we reflect on the miles we rode to be here today and declare it all worth the blood, sweat, and tears!

Out Around the Bay.

2009-08-15T11:16:00.000-07:00

We pack a large picnic and try to get away early as we’re driving around part of both Conception and Trinity Bays to the little outport towns where Barry’s ancestors and relatives came from. Leaving St. John’s we follow Route 60, also called the Admiral’s Coast Route from Manuels to Colliers. Barry is outnumbered by would-be photographers so is pulling over whenever David or Marlene request a picture stop (and there are many as Marlene is particularly enjoying the novelty of car travel)!
Barry’s parents owned a tavern in Kelligrews when he was a boy so that is our first stop. We are amazed at all the development in these shoreline communities close to St. John’s, that are now collectively referred to as Conception Bay South. Although the tavern has long been demolished the stories remain, as does the circular drive around the former premises. Barry finds the brook where he spent many carefree summer days, swimming, trouting, and skipping the smooth shale stones so common here. We hike up the brook a ways as Barry reminisces. It is a lovely peaceful natural spot and we reflect that everyone should have a childhood place like this that they can revisit, even if only in memories.
At Colliers we head north on the Baccalieu trail, Hwy 70 to Brigus, a perfect pearl of an outport village that retains much of its 19th century charm. Brigus’ Hawthorne Cottage, a National Historic site, preserves the birthplace of its most famous son, Captain Bob Bartlett, the ice pilot who guided Peary to within striking distance of the North Pole. After a stroll through some of the historic building we head to Country Corner café for lunch. This small restaurant and gift shop is justly famous for its great food especially blueberry delectables. We salivate over the moose stew and pea soup being served to others before ordering huge bowls of fish chowder with hot tender scones. The highlight of the meal is generous pieces of hot blueberry crumble, slathered with blueberry ice cream, and topped with warm blueberry sauce. It’s a hot meal for such a warm day but not to be missed!
A short walk over the rocky headland from Brigus is Cupids, the site of the first official English colony in Canada founded by John Guy in 1610. There is an archaeological dig in progress and a big celebration planned for the 400th anniversary next year. The first child born in English Canada was born here in 1613. Many outport towns, such as Brigus and Cupids, are an easy walk from one another but a much longer drive as roads for automobiles came centuries after walking paths and boat transportation.
We continue up the east side of Conception Bay stopping at the boardwalk in Harbour Grace where a statue of Amelia Earhart commemorates her solo flight across the Atlantic in 1932. At Victoria village, the childhood home of Barry’s Grandmother, we head across the barrens on Hwy 74 to Winterton, the ancestral home of the Hiscocks since 1753. The barrens refer to vast spaces of Newfoundland that are covered with scrubby windswept trees, berry bushes, ponds, and often fog. They are barren of much settlement but a favourite haunt of trout fishermen. Barry’s Mom and Grandmother, who lived together in Winterton for the 6 years Barry’s Dad was overseas during WW2, walked the 35kms across the barrens from Winterton to Victoria with Barry’s two older brothers on their backs to visit relatives and friends. They were remarkable women! Grandmother Hiscock, whose origin remains a mystery, was Innu but adopted and raised as a white child. Barry’s Mom, motherless from an early age, was a maid in Government House (pre-1949 when Newfoundland was still a British colony), before she married.
Until 1912, Winterton was known as Scilly Cove, and before that as Sugar Loaf Cove. It is a typical outport town albeit one of the oldest with headstones dating to 1700. There are many graveyards in Newfoundland, almost all on hillsides with awesome views of the sea, some carefully tended by family in the area and some gradually being overrun with blueberry and partridgeberry bushes. One can spend days exploring tombstones and their interesting inscriptions all over Newfoundland and we will visit many while we are on the rock. We search but do not find Barry’s Grandfather Ira’s tombstone. Ira, a giant of a man at 6’8”, is still remembered by some of the villagers for his hot temper. He once caught a man stealing his nets so Ira wrapped him in the net and threw him off the stage (wharf). The culprit survived the dunking and never messed with Ira again!
We spend some hours in Winterton walking the lanes and photographing all the Hiscock signs - a store, a lane, a root cellar, and many houses bear the moniker. Winterton is also the home of the Wooden Boat Museum of Newfoundland, which celebrates the skill and ingenuity of the town’s boat builders. The facility has full-size boats, constructed and used in the town, plus all the tools so it can offer boat building workshops like the “Build a Rodney” session in progress today. Living on the edge of the earth, the way of the water meant survival for the people of Newfoundland. So it is heart-warming to observe the wooden boat building traditions and skills revived and flourishing here.
There is wedding party coming out of the United Church and the bells are pealing joyfully. It is one of three weddings we will see on this sun-filled Saturday around the bay. We slowly motor down Hwy 80 through Heart’s Content, Heart’s Desire, and Heart’s Delight before stopping in New Harbour, the childhood home of Barry’s Mom and where he spent many happy summers. Barry recounts a grim memory from his childhood when he watched Pot head whales beings herded into the small bay, harpooned and slaughtered, then towed to the whaling station in Dildo, just around the headland. New Harbour is the site of one of the first cod fish farms in Newfoundland, this is a new chapter in the cod fishery - how things change me b’ye!
Dildo, despite its odd name, is a tidy town on beautiful Dildo Arm, with bustling government wharves, a 5 star B&B, and many attractions. We have enjoyed the fine accommodations provided by Inn By the Bay/George House B&B on previous trips. Most of the larger outport towns, like Dildo, have government wharves and the traditional pole stages, timbered slipways, and twine lofts are gradually rotting away, much to photographers’ dismay. Many of Barry’s maternal relatives continue to make their home here in Dildo and on a day such as this one we can understand why. Dildo has an Area Interpretation Centre that features Dorset Eskimo artifacts from Dildo Island, a Whaling and Sealing Museum, and Adventure Tours.

The Rooms

2009-08-13T11:14:00.000-07:00

It is a bit overcast today and as Barry and Marlene are a bit stiff from all the walking yesterday, it is a perfect day to visit The Rooms: St. John’s Provincial Museum, Archives, and Art Gallery. This magnificent building that soars into the city’s skyline, gets its name from the steep-roofed buildings on the shore of every fishing community where families came together to process their catch.
The Rooms, opened last year, combine striking 21st century technology with the past, and tell the story of Newfoundland and Labrador through art, artifacts, archaeology, architecture and archival records. It is also a wonderful place to eat as the café on level 4 has scrumptious food and a view like no other in the city. We sample the fish chowder, the fishcakes (salmon, halibut, and cod) and the seafood au gratin. If you don’t like seafood, Newfoundland cuisine offers moose and seal dishes, as well as tangy berry desserts. But there is a saying here “You can’t go wrong with the fish” and we have experienced the truth of that advice over and over.
We depart four hours later, very impressed with The Rooms. We regret that David will probably not have time to visit the Geo Centre, another attraction we can highly recommend. It is fitting that a province nicknamed The Rock has a world-class geological interpretation centre built into the rock of Signal Hills which forms many of the interior walls. We have managed to rent a car for the next two days (almost impossible in Newfoundland on short notice) and must pick it up

The Grand Concourse

2009-08-13T11:09:00.000-07:00

It is a gorgeous day and we are going on an extended hike that begins at the Battery, a couple of rows of brightly coloured, much photographed, old fishing houses that hug the side of the harbour. We are hiking the East Cape Trail as it winds its way to the Narrows and finally up to Signal Hill. The trail is one of many in the Grand Concourse: 120 kms of fine, well-marked walking trails with signs and storyboards, that connect the green spaces, historic buildings, and parks throughout the city. (The East Cape trail is not to be confused with the East Coast Trail which is a 10 hour wilderness trail from Signal Hill south through 30 historic communities).
The East Cape Trail is a favourite hiking trail as it has spectacular views, including the one from the top of Signal Hill, where Marconi received the first trans-Atlantic wireless message in 1901 in the city’s most famous landmark, Cabot Tower. The Signal Hill National Historic site has also been the site of harbour defences for St. John’s from the 18th century to the Second World War.
From Signal Hill we walk across the headland over to Cuckold’s Cove and eventually to the small fishing village of Quidi Vidi. We tour the Quidi Vidi Battery Provincial Historic site where guides dressed in period costume help you imagine the life of soldiers and their families in this once very remote spot on the edge of the North Atlantic during the early 1800’s. Quidi Vidi village is losing some of its quaintness as large homes are being built on the harbour although it’s still home to North America’s oldest cottage, Mallard Cottage, which is crammed with assorted antiques and collectibles.
Although we had a very large breakfast and fruit and trail mix along the way, we are ready for some barley sandwiches at the QV Brewery. We sit on the wharf patio enjoying our sample pack of beer, the sunshine, the busy harbour, and think that life is grand in Newfoundland! The Quidi Vidi Brewing Company makes six thirst-quenching varieties: 1892 Tradition Ale, Honey Brown, Honey Brown Light, Eric’s Red, QV & QV Light.

St.John’s

2009-08-12T11:04:00.000-07:00

David arrived safely, the gear is drying, the wind is blowing the clouds away, and what more can we ask? After a leisurely breakfast during which we catch up on the news from home and plan all the things we want to show to David (we haven’t seen David for 6 weeks and he hasn’t been to Newfoundland since he was a little boy), we set out on a walking tour of St. John’s. We begin at the Newfoundland Hotel and zig-zag along Water Street (the oldest street in North America), Duckworth Street, George Street (the most entertaining street in North America) and Harbour Drive.
While the other streets provide interesting shopping and trendy or traditional restaurants, George Street is all about pubs and places for live music. Regardless of the time of day or night you can tap your toes to traditional Newfoundland music heavily influenced by English/Irish music or seek out a variety of other entertainment to suit your fancy! We advise drinking but not eating on George Street. St. John’s is an ancient port favoured by fishermen, explorers, navies, and shippers for more than 400 years because it’s huge harbour is protected from the Atlantic ocean by a very narrow opening -The Narrows.
St. John’s has burned many times, much of it was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1892, but it’s a charming city whose brightly painted saltbox houses crowd the hills above the harbour. Almost all the historical buildings can be accessed on a walking tour that also passes many fine restaurants and shops. We stop at Ziggy’s Chip Wagon in front of Atlantic Place for a traditional lunch of chips, of course, that we take down to beautiful Harbourside Park to enjoy.
To complete our first day of sightseeing we hike up the hill to the Basilica of St. John the Baptist, which used to have the best view in the city (now usurped by The Rooms). The Basilica, a distinguished Roman Catholic cut stone sanctuary, begun in the 1840’s, has escaped the fires by being high on a hill and a judicious distance from the timbered buildings of the city. From the Basilica one can see the emerald lushness of the city with its lakes, parks, valleys, walking trails, and green spaces. A reward for all our walking is in order and we treat ourselves to delicious ice cream cones at Moo-Moo’s, a black and white spotted parlour with the best ice cream in the city.
Our days in St. John’s will be a balance of sight-seeing, visiting with Barry’s brother Gene & family, and simply enjoying the ambiance of this lovely old city. Tonight we’re eating our fresh cod caught in the Trinity Bight. Gene makes a Beer Batter for the fish and fries up salt pork into crispy morsels called Scrunchins that he pours over the fish just before eating. Delicious!

Perfect Storm

2009-08-11T18:02:00.000-07:00

We know we will awake to gentle rain as it has rained during the night and our grand old house has creaked with the wind. The breakfast menu this morning at Rolling Hills B&B is waffles with fresh blueberries and partridgeberries and whip cream. Yummy!
We’re not eager to leave but we are eager to get to Barry’s brother Gene and family in St. John’s about 260 kms away. Our wonderful host, Ed presents us with a huge piece of fresh cod to take with us - for Barry’s birthday, he says smiling. The food fishery is open which means that all Newfoundland residents may catch five fish a day for a set period. Newfoundlanders eagerly await the food fishery that occurs a couple of times a year because it provides one of their traditional foods and it means the cod stocks are very gradually coming back. All of our B&B hosts have been fishing in the evenings and limiting out within minutes. They scrupulously adhere to the limit because they have all had very sad experiences with over-fishing. But right now their freezers are brimming with fish and they’re generously giving it away!
The weather does not improve, in fact it gets ugly once we hit the TCH. If we weren’t expected by Gene we might seek shelter but decide to push on. By the time we get to Whitburne, we’re both wet through and miserable but we stop for a late lunch and revive a little. We are only 82 kms from our destination but the wind and the rain have intensified. We study one another carefully - for different reasons we really want to be at Gene’s and Marlene knows a secret that is a further compelling reason to keep going. Our oldest son David, is flying in from Vancouver tonight, to join us for 5 days in Newfoundland. It is a birthday surprise for Barry and a long awaited opportunity for David who hasn’t been here since he was a little boy. We manage to wobble out of the parking lot onto the highway- getting started in high wind is always tricky. Marlene plugs in her heated jacket, turns up the audio book in her Ipod and tries to imagine she is somewhere else. Barry fights the weather and the grooved pavement as some sections of the TCH are being repaved (although no crews are working today). There are no signs warning about uneven road surfaces or drops in road level and in these conditions he can’t see ahead so we ride very slowly. This is the second worst ride in our experience and the worst yet on this trip. We pass two vehicles in the ditch and really regret ever starting out this morning.
We finally arrive, completely soaked through all layers but safe. Gene is making his famous chilli for supper and the clothes dryer goes into action. David’s plane is delayed but still scheduled to land tonight and the world is unfolding as it should.

Random Berries

2009-08-10T17:52:00.000-07:00

Breakfast at Rolling Hills B&B is a delicious baked ham, cheese, bread, and eggs strata. We top it off with partridge berry muffins and extra coffee because we have an exploring day today in this part of Newfoundland we love so well and we’ll spend tonight at
Rolling Hills B&B again. Another beautiful day and Barry again consents to riding 4 kms of gravel road out to Fort Point Lighthouse. This is one of 23 staffed light stations in Newfoundland, although we have come for the magnificent views of Trinity Bight in the morning sunshine having already seen many of the 55 light stations in the province.
We ride into Trinity to view a few more historic buildings and take more pictures. Trinity is a walker’s delight whether you do it yourself or go on one of the guided tours. Barry is still not walking very comfortably so we keep our rambles short. Next we’re off on Hwy 239 to Bonaventure and New Bonaventure, two typical outport communities with active fisheries and interesting because two major films have been shot here. “Shipping News” was filmed in and around Trinity Bight, particularly New Bonaventure, and the miniseries “Random Passage” was filmed at a specially constructed site nearby. The Random Passage film site attracts many visitors because the buildings have remained and on Sundays entertainment is provided by various musicians and storytellers. The area is gorgeous today as one would expect a movie set to be and we enjoy picking blueberries for dessert on the hillside after our lunch.
New Bonaventure is a resettlement community that dates from the 50’s when the government encouraged Newfoundlanders who lived in isolated communities (without roads and services) to relocate. The people of Kerley’s Cove, Ireland Eye, and British Harbour all resettled in New Bonaventure but you can hike the highlands to their abandoned places past remnants of foundations, root cellars, and graves. We aren’t doing any hiking today but we do enjoy the scenery. On beautiful days like today we think we could easily live in Newfoundland but we have experienced the harsh realities of this climate even in the summer!
As this is not a heavy riding day we have lots of time to talk with both Newfoundlanders and fellow travellers although the Newfoundlanders are the most engaging and always make time to talk. In addition to the usual conversation topics we have heard about loves, lost loves, dreams, tragedies, and fears from people who moments before were strangers. For instance our gas attendant today tells us about her desire to visit her son and grandchildren in Fort McMurray but she has never flown and is afraid to. Marlene, who is “come from away” (CFA in Newfienese) sometimes finds the confidential level of the conversations disarming but Barry is in his element.
We round out our day with a superb cod fish dinner at the Dock Marina restaurant, a ramble out to the point, and wine in the sitting room with our amiable host and fellow guests.

Discovery Trail

2009-08-09T17:47:00.000-07:00

After a grand breakfast at Harbourview B&B we say a sad farewell to our fellow guests and our hosts (these are the kind of people who not only hug you when you leave but also watch and wave until you’re out of sight). We haven’t far to travel today which gives us time to visit the Ryan Premises National Historical site, the full-scale replica of John Cabot’s ship the Matthew, and a number of historic buildings in downtown Bonavista.
Then we’re off to Cape Bonavista to see the twin entrance sea cave called The Dungeon and the Cape Bonavista Lighthouse. Barry is feeling so mellow, must be the beautiful day, that he consents to riding 2 kms of gravel road to the sea caves and stacks of Spiller Cove. Once again we’re rewarded with a whale sighting!
The Discovery Trail refers to the roads on the Bonavista Peninsula which is one of the most historic parts of the province and certainly the most beautiful! From Bonavista we head to the equally stunning Trinity Bight and the historic communities of Trinity, Port Rexton, Dunfield, Bonaventure, etc. Trinity is world famous for its quaint village, the preservation of its historical buildings, and the Rising Tide Theatre that presents enduring Newfoundland dramas every night in the season. We sit around at the Dock Marina restaurant savouring the harbour traffic with our late lunch as we’re feeling tired today- yesterday’s rainy ride combined with a late night has taken its toll! We visit Hiscock House Provincial Historic site, one of some 50 architecturally significant buildings in Trinity before heading to Dunfield and the Rolling Hills B&B.
We chose Rolling Hills B&B because it is 6kms away from the tourist crowd of Trinity and for the highlands that provide easy walking and spectacular views. This B&B is perfect - simple elegance and very warm hospitality right in the heart of this tiny coastal village. The only downside is that we have to leave the village for supper as there are no food outlets or restaurants here.
Later in the evening our host, Ed joins us and the other guests in the sitting room where we sample his excellent homemade wine and beer. The other two couples have been to the theatre and are impressed with the calibre of the performance. We have seen Rising Tide performances on previous visits and can only agree with them. Many communities in Newfoundland have outstanding theatre seasons and they provide a entertaining way for visitors to learn about the history, quirks, humour, and dialects of this island.

Newfoundland Magic

2009-08-08T03:53:00.000-07:00

We put on a happy face and enjoy our delicious cooked breakfast at Captain’s Legacy B&B in Twillingate despite the rain that is falling outside. When we can’t postpone the minutes any longer we wipe off the bike and set out. Because the Twillingate islands are postcard beautiful they are some of the most photographed parts of Newfoundland. In addition to rugged natural beauty their relative isolation has helped the inhabitants maintain traditional ways and buildings.
We ride around some and stop to chat with Melvin Horwood who has made a little museum from his fishing shed when he retired. His picturesque property graces the cover of Frommer’s travel guide and many other travel publications. Like many older Newfoundlanders, he has not traveled from the Rock much but he loves to chat with the tourists from all over the world who come to Twillingate.
We ride back to Boyd’s Cove on Hwy 340 and then follow 331 to Gander Bay South where we intend to continue the Kittiwake Coast route around to New-Wes-Valley but it is pouring and we decide to head directly to Gander and the TransCanada Hwy. The TCH has the best road conditions, services and is not overly busy in Newfoundland so it is the best choice when the weather is bad. The rain eases up and we zip through Gander, Gambo, and Terra Nova National Park.
At Port Blanchard we take Hwy 233 which is a mistake as it’s under construction but we persevere until we get to Hwy 230 as that will take us to Bonavista , our destination. If we hadn’t been to Bonavista before we may have given up about 40 kms south of the town as we hit thick. cold fog in addition to the rain. Bonavista is one of the most important historic towns in Newfoundland as it is where John Cabot sighted land in 1497, claimed the island for Britain, and reported the plentiful cod stocks. The mercantile complex Ryan Premises National Historic site commemorates over 500 years of fishing on the East Coast.
We reserved the Harbourview B&B months ago because it is beside the Ryan Premises, on the harbour, and close to downtown. On first sight we hope we’ve made the right choice as it’s a bit of a shabby old house with a very interesting décor, however, it is clean, we have a view of the sea, and sun begins to break through the fog. Our fellow guests trickle in: two Coast Guard men, a couple from Australia, and a family of three from Ottawa. Our elderly hostess, who lives in the house next door, tells us her husband is out fishing, urges us to make ourselves at home and reminds us that they will be over to visit and serve a “lunch” about 9:30 pm. The Australian couple are mystified and ask us what to expect so we explain that in many of the B&B’s run by Newfoundlanders, who have strong roots in their communities and a tradition of hospitality, there is an evening teatime get-together.
After a supper of pizza we walk along the harbour for the sunset and see whales spouting - the last time we were here we also saw whales so we take this sighting as a good omen that all the hard riding in the rain was worth it. As the dusk gathers back at the B&B, we sit around two kitchen tables pushed together and covered with vinyl tablecloths to visit with the other guests.
One of the fascinating things about Newfoundland is that working people also stay in B&B’s and tonight we are so lucky because the two Coast Guard men are very entertaining and they’ve brought a big bag of cooked snow crab! These men could drive home as they’re within 200 kms but two evenings ago they hit a moose and although they weren’t hurt, their one ton CG pick-up was a write-off. They have a new truck but promised their wives they won’t tempt fate tonight.
Newfoundlanders say you won’t want to eat lobster once you’ve eaten snow crab and tonight we find out the truth of that. Then our hosts come over with bowls of blueberries, raspberries, and shrimp, that they serve with crackers and strong tea (for the non-drinkers). About the time that we’re all stuffed our hostess brings out a huge partridge berry flan and proceeds to cut great big slices for all of us. We all sit around swapping stories and jokes until after midnight (there is no point in going to bed anyway, as our lone teenager finds out, as the old house has no soundproofing and you can hear every sound). Albert, our 72 year young host, whose face is seamed and brown from the sea is particularly loquacious. When we tell him our tur/tourist story he laughs until he cries. We finally drag ourselves upstairs, open the windows wide to let the sea air and wave rhythm into the room before we sleep

River Thieves

2009-08-07T03:50:00.000-07:00

We have a blue sky, fairly good road, and we are also visiting the world that Michael Crummey wrote about in “River Thieves”, a historical novel about the extinction of the Beothuk (Red) Indians of central Newfoundland. We’ve imagined the setting from his colourful details and are excited to see it including: Bay of Exploits, Exploits River, Notre Dame Bay, Ship Cove (Botwood), and Twillingate. Crummey’s book is an authentic tragedy that is alive with both the rich vernacular and the details of that time and place- a great read even if you’re not planning a trip to central Newfoundland.
Doreen, our hostess at Indian river Brook B&B, not only provides us with a delicious traditional breakfast of blueberry pancakes and sausages, she also sings some folksongs and accompanies her singing with a “dance master”. This is a fascinating combination of percussion instrument and jointed stick puppet that she performs very well - these amazing Newfies!
Our morning ride begins in country much the same as yesterday: trees, rocks, brooks, and ponds. We stop in Bishop Falls for gas and can’t resist the smells coming from the bakery adjoining and purchase cinnamon buns that we make into lunch when we get to Botwood via Hwy 350, a pretty coastal town with a very interesting history. It began as a camping place for Beothuk Indians where they could fish and gather shellfish. The Newfoundland fishery pushed the Beothuk inland when they used this site seasonally. The protected harbour soon attracted permanent settlers and in 1939 the first regularly scheduled commercial trans-atlantic flights arrived here from Foynes, Ireland. These flying boats were the private jets of the day and their history is preserved in the local museum. During World War II, Botwood became an important antisubmarine base with in excess of 10,000 military personnel. Today it is a quiet town of less than 4000 people in the Bay of Exploits.
We return to the Trans Canada Hwy and ride until route 340 departs for the Kittiwake Coast. We head to Boyd’s Cove Interpretation Centre which is a Beothuk archaeological site. We meet a very interesting elderly fellow who is recreating Beothuk birch bark canoes. He is 93 years young still building incredibly authentic Indian canoes that navigate the nearby waters as well as the originals.
Route 340 is called the Road to the Isles which refers to a series of islands in Notre Dame Bay that were connected to each other and the main island by causeways in the 1960’s. Chappell Island, New World Island and Twillingate Island have become major tourist attractions as a result. Our destination is Captain’s Legacy B&B in Twillingate. Once the stop over point for the Newfoundland fishery going to Labrador, Twillingate’s economic importance dwindled until the causeways brought visitors to see whales, icebergs and these remote coastal villages. After a supper of fresh fish we climb one of the many hills to get a panoramic view of Twillingate and the necessary photos, as rain is forecast for tomorrow. A bonus is the wild blueberries, raspberries, and partridgeberries we pick and eat for dessert.

Western Newfoundland

2009-08-06T17:03:00.000-07:00

The rugged west coast of Newfoundland stretches from Channel-Port aux Basques on the extreme southwest corner to the Viking site at the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula. On this trip we are only riding a small portion of this vast area that we have not seen before. We are disappointed when we leave Port aux Basques that it is still in the fog and the entire section of the road we have never seen remains in the fog all the way to Corner Brook. So we will just have to take the word of the people who live here that it is beautiful!
Corner Brook, where we have been before, is sunny, so we take a side trip along the south shore of the Humber Arm to Bay of Islands. Captain Cook is said to have learned his trade navigating in the Humber Arm, we simply enjoy the sunshine and the scenery. We have seen Captain Cook sites in diverse places such as Cooktown, Australia; Nootka Island, BC; and now Corner Brook. Truly amazing the adventures of James Cook! Barry decides we’ll have lunch at McDonalds more for the fantastic view of Corner Brook it offers from its hilltop site, than the food. Corner Brook has a huge pulp and paper mill right in the heart of the city on a prime waterfront location but from our vantage point the city looks very fine built as it is on the hillsides above the Humber Arm.
We are riding the TransCanada Highway 1 and it takes us up the Humber River valley, past the skiing area of Marble Mountain to Deer Lake. We look wistfully at route 430 that on a previous trip took us to Gros Morne National Park and L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic site, both UNESCO World Heritage sites and extraordinary places. The countryside after Deer Lake is typical of the interior of Newfoundland: large stands of birch, spruce, and pine, dotted with ponds (small lakes) and crisscrossed by brooks (rivers), with small settlements far apart.
Our destination is Indian River Brook B&B, out in the country near Springdale, a hasty reservation due to the ferry delay, that turns out to be very comfortable and quiet. Unfortunately we have to ride (very slowly) to King’s Point for supper, however, our seafood dinner on the ocean patio is excellent and we don’t see any moose going or returning.
We heard a cute story today that would be unbelievable anywhere else in the world but here. There are many elderly men who sit around on the wharves most of the day enjoying the passing scene and there are always a few visitors to Newfoundland who ask silly questions of these oldtimers: One day a visitor inquired “Had many tourists in this area?” The old Newfie only heard the “Tur” part of tourist so you can imagine the visitor’s horror when the old man replied “Yes by’e, I knocked five of dem on de head t’other day, I ete two and t’other tree is in the freezer.” (Tur is the name Newfoundlanders have given to the seabird commonly known as a Murre. Tur is apparently quite tasty but fishy and prized in Newfoundland for its meat and eggs).

When You Wake Up To The Promise of Your Dream Coming True

2009-08-05T16:55:00.000-07:00

We anticipated being more excited when this day arrived as this is the day Barry will ride the motorcycle on the Rock! The ups and downs of the last few days have drained us of some of our zest for the journey but we’re sure we’ll regain it. It is a beautiful morning: the sun sparkling on the water and the lavender bushes all around this heritage house perfuming the air as we load up. We have a bit of luggage rearranging to do as no one is permitted on the car decks during the crossing so everything we think we might want for the 5 to 7 hour trip needs to be stuffed into a backpack that we can carry to the upper decks.
Arriving at 9:30, two hours early as directed, we wait with the other bikers on hot asphalt until 12:20 when we’re finally loaded onto the end of the truck deck - so much for being the first ones off! All the bikes have to be securely tied down as this can be a wild stretch of ocean. The ferry, MV Caribou, finally departs. Never will we complain about the BC Ferries again! Not only do you have to have prepaid reservations for these wickedly expensive ferries in the East, the whole concept of schedule seems to have escaped them.
The crossing is uneventful, the ocean is very calm, and we arrive shortly after 6 pm, Nfld time in the very foggy harbour. There aren’t many motorcycles on the ferry, one other older couple from Quebec (with whom we’ve not conversed much due to language difficulties) and three younger single riders who are throwing caution to the wind and riding on. The unloading is accomplished much more quickly than the loading and we observe the Quebec couple slipping into the first moving car line and comment to ourselves that they must be in a hurry. When we arrive at the Port Aux Basques Hotel and the same couple have secured the last room we understand their hurry!
The hotel offers us an in-house telephone and Marlene quickly phones every accommodation possibility in the area listed with the Nfld Traveller’s Guide. Nothing! We are beginning to feel sick. Port Aux Basques is a small town with a lot of accommodation - almost 200 rooms, one of which we were sure we would get. One kind hotel clerk sees Marlene’s distress and says she knows a couple who take in guests in overflow situations. She calls them and a few minutes later Dan Mushrow, 61, arrives on his scooter to guide us to his modest home, where he and his wife Emma have already welcomed another couple from Ontario and will welcome us and another traveller before bedtime.
Our room is small and we are all sharing one bathroom but we spend an evening in what can only be described as authentic Newfoundland hospitality: we all sit around in the living room and Dan entertains us with wonderful stories and songs. Emma urges him on, requesting favourite stories she thinks “the crowd” might enjoy and although Marlene doesn’t catch all of his words, we both appreciate the genuine kindness and love of place this couple, who have lived here all their lives, so generously share with strangers.
There is a framed cross stitch quotation on the bedroom wall that conveys the essence of Dan and Emma - “The best and most beautiful things in the world cannot be seen or even touched. They must be felt with the heart.” We’re very glad to be safely in Newfoundland, up to now we’ve been tourists, seeing what we wanted to see, for the next two weeks we will be Newfoundlanders and we will see what we see.

Carpe Diem

2009-08-04T16:39:00.000-07:00

Barry’s knee is recovered enough to ride safely and we seize the opportunity to ride the 360 kms to North Sydney where the ferries to Newfoundland are experiencing all kinds of problems due to a fire aboard one of the ships last week. We have been unable to get through by telephone and the ferry website is not helpful. Taking advantage of both the good weather and Barry’s endurance we ride straight through, stopping only for coffee and bathroom breaks. We’re riding the TransCanada highway as it is the most direct route to North Sydney. Once over the Canso Causeway the scenery is very picturesque although we’re not even stopping for photos today.
We observe that much of the signage in Nova Scotia is bilingual as it was in New Brunswick, however, rather that English and French, it is English and Gaelic. There are many intriguing place names in the Maritimes and our favourites to date are the country general store called “Me and the Missus”, the village of “Diss Hill”, and the economy of “Five Houses Road”. The English language is spoken quickly and with a pleasant lilt in the Maritimes which Barry slips into easily. Both Barry who has been “lang away” and Marlene who is “from away” will have difficulty understanding some of the spoken English in parts of Newfoundland. As a teacher Marlene is always confounded by how little influence the school system has had on grammar in the Maritime when one can sit in the Emergency room and listen to a young man in the next chair saying into his cell phone “I’m over the Emergency room, me tot I’m died”.
Our first destination is the Marine Atlantic Ferry Terminal in North Sydney where we’re told our ferry for the next day might depart at 11:30 am, (certainly not before) rather than the originally scheduled 8:30 am. This is not good news! It entails changing at least two hotel reservations over the next two days as we can’t ride at night in Newfoundland because we will not risk an encounter with a moose. We decide to find our accommodation, Heritage House B&B, and are delighted to find an elegant older home, right on the bay, with a chatty sympathetic landlady.
Sipping red wine on the veranda looking out to sea helps ease the tensions of the day and we reflect that our later departure will enable us to enjoy a leisurely breakfast with the rest of the guests in the morning. Our landlady recommends an excellent bistro, The Blackspoon, for dinner, after which we stroll along the waterfront and enjoy a small ceilidh (maritime entertainment with lots of fiddle music). North Sydney has some lovely older homes and a very interesting harbour. There are many people about, both locals enjoying the fine weather on the waterfront and travellers waiting for ferries. Some people (without reservations) have been here for days waiting to cross to Newfoundland.

Homesick Blues

2009-08-03T16:36:00.000-07:00

On every adventure we’ve ever experienced there are times, sometimes only moments, sometimes longer, when we are homesick. Today is one of those times. It has rained hard overnight and we have an overcast dark sky this morning. Barry is resting his knee and Marlene is restless so she heads out on a walking tour of the Truro Heights area, getting back to Willow Bend Motel just before a major downpour. The rain continues all afternoon so we catch up on our reading, email, and telephone calls.
The good news is that Barry’s knee is improving and it is raining in Ingonish Beach (where we planned to be) too! Nothing like a small motel room on a dreary day to make us long for all the amenities of home so the next best thing is to plan all the recipes we’re going to try when we get there, including this one:

Maritime Potato Crusted Salmon
4 salmon fillets (4 oz or 100 grams)
4 tsp (20ml) Dijon mustard
¼ cup (50ml ) minced onion
2 large potatoes
2tbsp (25ml) olive oil
Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 400 F. Pat the salmon dry and spread 1 tbsp of mustard on the fleshy side. Lightly season . Peel, wash, and grate the potatoes, stir in the onions and divide the potato mixture into 4 equal portions. Use your hands to squeeze excess moisture from the potato mixture and press mixture firmly and evenly onto the fleshy side of each fillet. Heat oil in an ovenproof pan and carefully place each fillet potato side down in the hot oil and brown 3 to 4 minutes. Gently flip so the skin side is down and place pan in oven and bake until done(about 10 minutes).
Variation: replace mustard with bbq sauce.

Old Goalie Knees

2009-08-02T05:00:00.000-07:00

Well we hit a bump in the road today that required a change in our travel plans! Barry’s right knee has been bothering him for about 4 days and he hoped it would get better, however, by this morning the restricted movement caused by the swelling made it difficult and painful to ride the motorcycle. After weighing our options we departed from Gillespie House Inn, Parrsboro after a delicious breakfast and gave the knee a trial. Parrsboro is a small town and as this is Sunday of a long weekend in Nova Scotia getting medical advice will necessitate our getting to a bigger place. After 45 kms we realized we couldn’t continue much further and stopped by the roadside to rest where we were joined by another couple on motorcycle. They were from the area and able to give us detailed directions to the hospital in Truro, NS, where we arrived safely.
The Emergency area of Colchester Regional Hospital was busy, as it is in most public hospitals on the weekend, and we settled in for a long wait. After a 4 hour wait, an examination and an x-ray, Barry was released with a new tensor bandage and some drugs to deal with the inflammation. Meanwhile Marlene sadly cancelled our reservations at the Keltic Lodge in Ingonish Beach and made reservations at the Willow Bend, the motel closest to the hospital.
It appears that Barry may have aggravated some old hockey injuries and the arthritis in his knee which caused the flare-up. The doctor advises that the swelling will diminish with drugs and RICE ( rest, ice, compression, elevation) and Barry should be recovered enough to continue to travel in a day or two. We are grateful the motel is clean, has a great continental breakfast, and is within walking distance of grocery stores, a pharmacy, and even Walmart. We should be ready to continue our journey to North Sydney on August 4th as we have an 8:30 am ferry reservation to Newfoundland on August 5th.

Going the Glooscap Trail

2009-08-01T05:50:00.000-07:00

Having enjoyed all but a few wet hours on PEI we took one last coastal road that gave us an optimal view of the stunning Confederation Bridge before we paid the $17 toll (half price for motorcycles) and departed the island. Northumberland Strait is very calm, the morning is bright after overnight rain, and the coast of New Brunswick looks very green and inviting. But we have no time to stop as we zip across the cape to Nova Scotia and stop at the outstanding Welcome Centre at the provincial border near Amherst. This particular information centre is not only well designed and depictive of Nova Scotia, it is also located on top of a hill and has an expansive view of the landscape in all directions.
We haven’t seen any of the Fundy shore yet on this trip so we’re looking forward to this tidally awesome coastline where the highest tides in the world have shaped both the coastline and the culture. At Amherst we take Hwy 302 and then 242 to the Joggins Fossil Cliffs, which are across the bay from the Hopewell Rocks. Joggins, a once thriving coal town like neighbouring Springhill, has fossilized trees, more than 300 million years old (Carboniferous Period), still visible in its shoreline cliffs. The Joggins Fossil Cliffs, inscribed on the World Heritage site list in 2008, are a very impressive sight.
There is a wonderful brand new ecologically-sensitive interpretive centre at the cliffs which is both informative and protects access to this important but dangerous shoreline where the fossils of the first reptile to inhabit land were found. As the Fundy tides continue to erode the cliffs, fossils on the beach are continually replenished and while anyone may explore the area, one must have a permit to hunt for fossils. The centre also offers a variety of scheduled guided tours of the cliffs, one of which Marlene participates in.
From Joggins we ride the Glooscap trail to Parrsboro, home to the Fundy Geological Museum which is another place to learn about natural history and some of the oldest dinosaur bones in North America. Here we are staying at the Gillespie House Inn, an historic home built in 1890 when Parrsboro was a ship building and lumbering centre. It is a gracious house with seven guestrooms all with ensuite bathrooms and antique furnishings. It is quite the loveliest accommodation we’ve enjoyed on this trip and we spend some of the evening sitting on the expansive veranda chatting with other guests.
Glooscap is a mythical Mi’kmaw hero who controlled the tides with his magical powers and helped shape the landscape as it is today. There are many Glooscap legends in this part of Nova Scotia and therefore the roads that border Chignecto Bay and Cobequid Bay are called the Glooscap Trail in his honour.

Green Gables Shore

2009-07-31T16:27:00.000-07:00

It is a beautiful morning and we are off to Green Gables, Lucy Maud Montgomery’s Cavendish National Historic Site. The bike is dry because we have covered parking at Sunny Isles motel and we have enough dry riding gear to make this trip to the sites that pay tribute to Anne of Green Gables. We take a Hwy 107, a road we haven’t travelled that has a construction zone just like almost every other route on this island. We are first in line at the traffic control point and able to speak to the traffic control person who confirms that there is construction almost everywhere this year, far in excess to what she has seen in previous years. She reminds us that the road construction season is very short on PEI.
At the picturesque town of Stanley Bridge we turn onto Hwy 6 which takes us on to Cavendish. We ride through a very scenic landscape composed of red sandstone bluffs, white sand beaches and rolling farm fields. Parks Canada has preserved both Green Gables and Montgomery’s grandparents homestead where she live for half her life. The house and grounds depict a typical PEI farm of the late 1800’s although the fields have become a golf course. It is a very peaceful beautiful setting that inspired Montgomery throughout her writing career.
We drive back to Stanley Bridge to lunch on the outdoor patio of Carr’s Seafood Restaurant. The restaurant has a panoramic view of New London Bay, the farms at the edge of the town, the wharves, and the bridge where teenagers are jumping into the water. Anywhere in the world the combination of warm weather and water guarantees that the teenagers will find the highest point and jump off it. We enjoy a traditional PEI lunch of steamed mussels and raspberry cordial. We follow Route 20, a beautiful ride that takes us to French River, the Lake of Shining Waters and gorgeous Malpeque village, famous for its briny oysters.
It’s mid afternoon so we head back to our motel, as we have a bit of laundry to do and gear to dry, but not before picking up a huge cooked lobster for our dinner. Yum Yum! PEI is a great province for picnicking as there are many roadside markets for both vegetables and seafood.
With the laundry done and drying in the sun, Marlene heads to downtown Summerside to check out some of the heritage buildings and do some window shopping at Spinnakers Landing. She is particularly interested in the authentic island arts and crafts that can be found here.

Mother Nature’s Wash Day

2009-07-30T16:22:00.000-07:00

Early start and a ride to Cornwall, just on the outskirts of Charlottetown, where the motorcycle will be serviced at the local Harley Davidson dealer, Red Rock. The forecast is for rain but it has rained hard overnight so we are optimistic that the day will brighten up. There is nothing like a long motorcycle trip for making you a devotee of weather forecasts: we watch them on TV, listen to them on radio, search for them online, and discuss them endlessly with our fellow travellers.
Barry opts to remain at Red Rock HD with his baby while Marlene takes the time to tour Cows Creamery, to learn the finer points of making ice cream, cheddar cheese, and T-shirts. Cows Creamery is a small factory that has enjoyed enormous success with tourists - a no-brainer actually, as PEI has many dairy farms and almost all tourists buy ice cream, T-shirts and local cheese. The tour is lead by very enthusiastic teenagers and the tour script employs every word that they can insert cow into. The T-shirts also have some very clever cow logos on them and have become collectors’ items for people with cow fetishes. Just about the time you never want to hear the word cow again, the tour is over (about 35 minutes) and you enjoy a samples of cheese and ice cream. There is also a small outlet mall on the site, however, PEI is not a shopping destination unless you want souvenirs or fresh seafood.
With the bike service complete and the necessary T-shirts purchased, we go to Maggie’s restaurant for an excellent lunch of grilled haddock.
We are off to see the sights of Charlottetown, famous as the birthplace of Canada’s Confederation. Currently Charlottetown is a centre for commerce, education, and tourism. PEI must be one of those places that heaves a great sigh of relief when the tourists leave for the winter. Although Charlottetown only has a population of about 35,000 the traffic is horrendous today. We check out Founder’s Hall, Great George Street, and Peake’s Wharf with many other tourists. It is our intention to visit Cavendish in the late afternoon but the sky is looking very dark as we set out with high hopes and an eye on the weather. We decide to take Hwy 2 toward Cavendish, just in case the weather decides not to cooperate we can easily head down Summerside (we think). A few minutes later the worst happens and the rain begins pelting down. With the combination of large numbers of tourists and the heavy rain, traffic if moving quite slowly on Hwy 2, which is fine for us until we hit construction near Hunter River. The land is rolling agricultural and we are able to see a long way down the highway and observe the traffic is backed up for close to 2 kms. We decide to turn around to take alternate route along a country road (paved but lots of bumps) to Hwy 225 which will connect with Hwy 1A to take us back to our motel.
By the time we reach Hwy 225 the rain begins to fall harder, if that’s possible, which really reduces visibility and the wind picks up considerably with gusts that threaten to push the bike across a lane on the highway. We feel fortunate that there is no lightening as that would have forced us to stop and take cover somewhere. Storm riding is dangerous and difficult without the added concern of trying to navigate an unplanned route on unknown roads. Marlene’s map begins to disintegrate in the rain but she has committed the route to memory and gets us to the motel. In our years of riding this is the second worst storm we have survived and we’re fairly unnerved after over an hour in heavy rain and wind on unknown roads. We end up being soaked through our rain gear although not really cold as the temperature is about 25C. The humidity is at 100% and more than that in our motel room and we wonder if our gear will ever dry. Time for a cool beer and sandwiches for supper as we’re not venturing out again. The microwave comes in very handy for Marlene’s favourite supper - POPCORN!

Joy Riding

2009-07-29T18:15:00.000-07:00

We set off riding the south shore of the central coast from Summerside to Charlottetown with a stop in Victoria-by-the-Sea which is a small village that time seems to have passed by. There are children building red sand castles on a red sand beach! Prince Edward Island has three counties and this is Queens County. We take the by-pass around Charlottetown, the provincial capital, because we’re saving it for tomorrow as the forecast is for rain. We cross the Hillsborough River that divides the metro area and soon enter Kings County to begin the Points East Coastal Drive.
This coastal drive boasts four lighthouses, an outstanding golf course, some of the best beaches on the island, and some spectacular dunes. This eastern route is also the way to the Woods Island Ferry to Nova Scotia and the ferry to the Quebec Iles-de-la-Madeleine, neither of which we will take, as we want to ride the Confederation Bridge again. The scenery is gorgeous and the road is fairly smooth although there is a little construction. At Souris we stop for our picnic lunch as there is a rest area on the beach with a great view of the area. The water is warm as the tide is coming in and we do some wading after lunch. Our plan is to have a swim at Basin Head where the sand “sings” , however, hundreds of other bathers have the same idea so after we snap some pictures and walk on the sand we carry on.
We ride out to the East Point Light House as it is the most easterly part of PEI, and while Barry chats with some Newfie tourists, Marlene sees the first whale of the trip (to far away to determine the species as we’ve forgotten the binoculars). The Confederation Trail, made from the rail bed when train service ended on PEI, begins just west at Elmira. The trail lets you bike, hike, or snowmobile across the entire island. Although much of the trail runs inland, some sections, such as the one that runs through the gorgeous village of St. Peters, are very popular and attract many campers using the trail.
The north shore route, mostly Highway 16 and 2, is even more beautiful than the southeast shore and the road is better too. Near the end of the Points East Drive we stop for our long overdue swim at Morell where the municipality has built a first rate outdoor kitchen/bath house and installed a very hi-tech jet foam swimming wharf. The water is brown, not murky, not muddy, but brown and very refreshing.
At Tracadie we re-enter Queens County where we are riding the north shore of the central coast to Rustico. This route is busier as it lays north of Charlottetown and is both home to many commuters and a quick get-away for city residents. It seems like a long time since lunch and we are sufficiently hungry to stop at New Glasgow for the world-famous Lobster Supper. They have been serving lobster suppers here since 1958 and they are masters, serving hundreds every night! All meals include unlimited delectable rolls, seafood chowder, steamed mussels, salad, dessert and beverages. Although one can order roast beef or ham or Atlantic salmon for their entree, we order lobster, of course! We are not disappointed with the meal, the experience or the picturesque setting on the River Clyde. We only have a half hour ride back to our motel, through rolling farm country. We rode 361 of the best kilometres on this trip today, thank you PEI.

Nothing But Blue Skies Do We See

2009-07-28T18:06:00.000-07:00

We were delighted to wake up to a blue sky after so many days of rain and fog, so we treated ourselves to a big breakfast and a slow start. We ride around Shediac a little and marvel at how much better it looks in sunshine, then set off to try to ride along coastal roads to Confederation Bridge. This incredible bridge, 12.9 kilometres long, opened in 1997, and crosses Northumberland Strait connecting Prince Edward Island to New Brunswick.
At the PEI end of the bridge there is a tourist magnet called Gateway Village where we stop, along with hundreds of others - PEI draws thousands of tourists from all over the world and we’re dazzled by the huge motor homes (mostly American) that we see. Interestingly just a few streets away from the Gateway area, where we ride to get good photos of the awesome bridge, dulce gatherers are laying out their seaweed to dry on an abandoned sheet of asphalt. We are immediately impressed by the pastoral beauty of PEI although the island is also very commercialized and traffic moves slowly (in the summertime anyway) around the cities, bigger towns, and major tourist attractions.
Our destination on the island is Clark’s Sunny Isle Motel in Summerside, which is situated on 20 acres overlooking Bedeque Bay. The motel has very pretty landscaped grounds to wander around in although it’s a bit buggy. We’re disappointed that the motel is just a little too far from busy downtown Summerside to walk. We spend the remainder of the day doing laundry, mapping out what we want to see in this “red dirt” province, and enjoying the sunshine.

Maritime Magnifique or Nothing Like Lobster

2009-07-27T06:33:00.001-07:00

Campbellton is not only fogged in when we’re ready to leave, there has also been heavy rain overnight and some residual drizzle remains which means rain gear again! Our rain gear, literally and figuratively, is a protective shield we hate bearing and not just because it makes us look and feel like inflated dummies! Bad weather takes all the glamour out of riding; bad weather means tense, uncomfortable riding. We believe that road sense is the better part of safe riding and this morning our road sense dictates that the fog shrouded winding coastal road around beautiful Chaleur Bay we’d hoped to ride is out and we opt for the limited access of inland Highway 11 to foggy Bathurst.
There is still too much fog to ride the shoreline road of the Acadian Peninsula so at Bathurst we again opt for the safer inland Highway 8. The fog dissipates very slowly over the next 100 kms and by the time we stop in Richibucto for lunch most of the fog has blown by, revealing an overcast sky. The goods news is that there has been no rain, only drizzle and road splash, and neither have we seen any of the moose this highway is famous for. Moose and motorcycles don’t mix well and we avoid riding early in the morning and in the evening to reduce our chances of meeting any kind of wildlife.
We stop in the lovely coastal town of Bouctouche because the sky has lightened and we’re very hot in all our gear. Since Ontario there has been a lot of standing water all along our route as the east has had a very wet summer so far. Standing water means humidity and bugs! We strip the rain gear off and not 15 minutes later down the highway we’re hit by a downpour! We manage to struggle back into the raingear and ride on a few kilometres but then stop under an overpass until the worst of the shower has passed. By the time we ride into Shediac the rain has stopped but we’re done and decide to call it a day if we can get accommodation. Shediac is a resort destination but the bad weather is in our favour and we find a vacancy at the Four Seas Motel.
There are many motorcycles already parked at the motel and many travellers sitting outside their units enjoying a cool drink because even though it’s overcast the temperature is about 30C and that’s without the humidity factor. The east coast of New Brunswick has many French-speaking residents and many visitors from Quebec who are no doubt very comfortable here as everyone we deal with in the service industry in New Brunswick is fluently bi-lingual. This was not the case in Quebec where we observed very few out-of-province or American license plates, even at the major tourist attractions, although there were certainly many international visitors in Quebec City.
The Four Seas has a restaurant where we splurge on a lobster feast as Shediac claims to be the lobster capital of the world. We enjoy a wonderful fresh lobster and assorted other seafoods meal followed by our first toe-dipping in the Atlantic Ocean at beautiful Parlee Beach, reputed to have the warmest water north of Virginia. The sun makes its appearance just before setting and suddenly the beach is so glorious and we feel so good stuffed with lobster, we agree the less-than-stellar ride was worth it!

2009-07-27T06:33:00.000-07:00

Maritime Magnifique or Nothing Like Lobster
Campbellton is not only fogged in when we’re ready to leave, there has also been heavy rain overnight and some residual drizzle remains which means rain gear again! Our rain gear, literally and figuratively, is a protective shield we hate bearing and not just because it makes us look and feel like inflated dummies! Bad weather takes all the glamour out of riding; bad weather means tense, uncomfortable riding. We believe that road sense is the better part of safe riding and this morning our road sense dictates that the fog shrouded winding coastal road around beautiful Chaleur Bay we’d hoped to ride is out and we opt for the limited access of inland Highway 11 to foggy Bathurst.
There is still too much fog to ride the shoreline road of the Acadian Peninsula so at Bathurst we again opt for the safer inland Highway 8. The fog dissipates very slowly over the next 100 kms and by the time we stop in Richibucto for lunch most of the fog has blown by, revealing an overcast sky. The goods news is that there has been no rain, only drizzle and road splash, and neither have we seen any of the moose this highway is famous for. Moose and motorcycles don’t mix well and we avoid riding early in the morning and in the evening to reduce our chances of meeting any kind of wildlife.
We stop in the lovely coastal town of Bouctouche because the sky has lightened and we’re very hot in all our gear. Since Ontario there has been a lot of standing water all along our route as the east has had a very wet summer so far. Standing water means humidity and bugs! We strip the rain gear off and not 15 minutes later down the highway we’re hit by a downpour! We manage to struggle back into the raingear and ride on a few kilometres but then stop under an overpass until the worst of the shower has passed. By the time we ride into Shediac the rain has stopped but we’re done and decide to call it a day if we can get accommodation. Shediac is a resort destination but the bad weather is in our favour and we find a vacancy at the Four Seas Motel.
There are many motorcycles already parked at the motel and many travellers sitting outside their units enjoying a cool drink because even though it’s overcast the temperature is about 30C and that’s without the humidity factor. The east coast of New Brunswick has many French-speaking residents and many visitors from Quebec who are no doubt very comfortable here as everyone we deal with in the service industry in New Brunswick is fluently bi-lingual. This was not the case in Quebec where we observed very few out-of-province or American license plates, even at the major tourist attractions, although there were certainly many international visitors in Quebec City.
The Four Seas has a restaurant where we splurge on a lobster feast as Shediac claims to be the lobster capital of the world. We enjoy a wonderful fresh lobster and assorted other seafoods meal followed by our first toe-dipping in the Atlantic Ocean at beautiful Parlee Beach, reputed to have the warmest water north of Virginia. The sun makes its appearance just before setting and suddenly the beach is so glorious and we feel so good stuffed with lobster, we agree the less-than-stellar ride was worth it!

Where the Fog Are We?

2009-07-26T18:15:00.000-07:00

We spent the night at the Aubergine La Sainte Paix, a comfortable bed & breakfast with very amiable hosts and a lovely view of the Saguenay River. In our experience one of the disadvantages of a B&B is that one is usually confined to a very small room that can be very confining in bad weather - and the weather is bad! This morning we enjoyed a very interesting gourmet breakfast, put on our raingear, had a quick look at the sand dunes, and depart Tadoussac.
We are riding H138 to Forestville where we will catch our ferry across the St. Lawrence River. The small picturesque towns along this stretch of highway have stunning views of the St. Lawrence River and are one of the best places in Canada to see more than a dozen species of marine animals. There are also a number of excellent marine mammal interpretation centres, whale watching view points, and a variety of cruises. All of the experts tell us that there are presently 4 blue whales in the river, however, the river is very foggy and we are not as eager as the Europeans we’ve met here, to spend our money on a off chance of sighting a whale in the fog. We stop to take some pictures along the way but there is no sun, the river is dark, and the view is very limited.
We are taking the only fast ferry in operation in Quebec across the St. Lawrence from Forestville to Rimouski. The ferry is a catamaran that travels 55 km/h, carries 175 passengers, and 30 vehicles (plus as many others as can be squeezed in). We have the mandatory reservation so our bike is the first vehicle on the ferry. It is a interesting loading procedure where only the driver is permitted to drive onto the car deck and all passengers must walk on and off the ferry. The ferry is scheduled to depart at 1:30 pm but because there is heavy demand (not everyone has a reservation) as many vehicles as possible are loaded and we mean squeeze! Vehicles are parked near touching end-to-end and the driver needs a can-opener to get out of the vehicle. Outside mirrors have to be folded in to permit passage between vehicles. Every time a vehicle gets on the ferry dips sharply and Marlene, who suffers from motion sickness, cannot watch. Needless to say, the departure is delayed until 2:30. Because the St. Lawrence is completely salty at this point and tidal, with large ocean swells, the motorcycles all have to be tied down.
The river is completely fogged in and we are disappointed but our decision not to whale watch is confirmed as sound. The ferry is fast despite the fog and takes an hour to cross. We get the VIP treatment on arrival as the purser comes to find us, escorts us to the car deck, and allows Marlene to be the only passenger to ride off the ferry. We’re not sure whether this is because we are among the first 3 vehicles off and they don’t want us to hold up the unloading or because we are “anglais”. Rimouski and Mont Joli, where the Gaspe loop begins and ends, are also completely fogged in and we are glad we are not riding the Gaspe, although we have driven it in fine weather and can highly recommend it.
As we head inland on H132 the weather brightens, we see the sun for the first time today and our expectations for beautiful scenery are finally met. H132 begins in rolling farmlands, climbs into the highlands of the Appalachians, and passes many beautiful lakes and rushing rivers. This area is known for its outdoor activities and we spot many fly fisherman honing their skills. We are behind schedule because of the ferry delay and a little apprehensive as the sky is darkening with both the twilight and bad weather ahead. Our moods darken seriously when we get caught in a downpour about 35 kms short of our destination, Campbellton, New Brunswick which is just across the Restigouche River from Quebec. Particularly because we had taken our rain gear off a bit earlier and then have to suit up on the side of the highway in the rain! Thankfully there is room at the Comfort Inn and the Chinese restaurant next door is still open. It’s amazing how a good meal and a hot bath can ease tension of the ride.

Il Pleut but the Rain Gear Does its Job

2009-07-25T18:53:00.000-07:00

We awake to rain and even though we drag breakfast out as long as possible we eventually have to gear up and set off. Our motel and others have plug-ins for cars so it must get cold here in the winter; hope these habitants get some good weather soon because their nice scenery would be so much better with sunshine. We are riding down the east side of the Saguenay River on Highway 172 which is much like the west side: 75 kilometres between services or even many signs of life (you get the picture). We zigzag off the highway and ride down to Sainte-Rose-du-Nord because Marlene is ready to bail if she doesn’t see a fjord and finally we see what we’ve ridden all this way for. We meet another couple on a motorcycle who have come from our destination, Tadoussac and they are quite wet (are we having fun yet?). It is plain to see the female rider is not having a “live to ride” day.
Long story short we get to Tadoussac where we are glad they have good restaurants because the weather does not improve. Tadoussac belongs to the Most Beautiful Bays in the World Club and we recognize that it has a very pretty natural setting. It is also the oldest village in Canada, the site of the first trading post, and a premier whale watching destination. The whales are even more elusive than the fjords and we are a bit disappointed, however, we remind ourselves that we will see both in Newfoundland (been there, done that). The forecast is for more rain tomorrow!
One of the frustrating things about the English/French language barrier is not understanding the comments that people make to us conversationally while standing in line or walking by, etc. For example, we were walking back from the store last night and we had a six pack of Moosehead beer. We were attempting to cross the street and a man stopped his vehicle and motioned us to cross in front of him. When he drove by, with a big grin on his face, he yelled something out the open window of the vehicle. We know not what he said but didn’t hear any of the French swear words we know so we conjecture that he thought we were drinking the right kind of beer or he liked Barry’s new Harley Davidson shirt or he liked Marlene or all three.
Marlene, who is a reader, finds the absence of written English really frustrating because all the visitor interpretation are not accessible. Additionally because no signs, directions, or maps, are written in English we’re making quick translations while riding which makes things tense. Of courses one antidote to tension is beer and it is even a bit cheaper here than at home. Speaking of beer, we have tried several different kinds: Stellas Artios, Grolsch, Heineken, Moosehead, Alexander Keith’s and of course the old hockey team faithful Budweiser. Moosehead is still right up there with the best.

River Route: Bon Fjord Route: Comme ci, comme ca

2009-07-24T18:24:00.000-07:00

Our days in Quebec City have flown and we are on Highway 138, the St Lawrence River Route again. The downtown traffic was surprisingly light and in no time we were at Montmorency Falls, Quebec’s Niagara. We saw them from a distance yesterday from the boat and today was a close-up. They are quite impressive and the park offers both a walk up and across and gondola cars for closer viewing, neither of which we take advantage of as we’ve many kilometres to ride and rain is forecast. We are certainly not enjoying the hot dry weather that Vancouver Island has this summer - thanks for rubbing it in, everybody back home!
We stop at the Shrine of Sainte Anne-de-Beaupre because it is right on the highway but it is so commercialized, we snap our photos and leave. This is a site of healing and a centuries old pilgrimage for the believers in New France. Sadly it hasn’t any of the serenity or the expansive well-tended grounds of the Cap-de-la-Madeleine shrine, however, it does have many visitors. It begins to rain lightly, and even though we’re riding through the wooded hills of the Laurentian mountains our visibility is limited by the weather closing in and we’re not appreciating the scenery much.
Just west of Baie-Saint-Paul the road descends to the St. Lawrence River, the wind dies down, the rain stops, the sky is lighter and we begin to enjoy the ride into this very pretty little town set in a valley. We leave H138 for H362 at Baie-Saint-Paul and as the road climbs away from the town there is a rest stop that offers sweeping views of the town, the river, Isle-aux Coudres, and the mountains. We can understand why this area is known as an artists’ paradise.
Highway 362, under construction in sections and poorly surfaced in others, is some ride! Up and down, it twists and turns through hilly farmlands with magnificent views of the St. Lawrence. We ride through the village of Eboulements nestled in the hills high above the river and then the road tumbles down to the saltwater shoreline of the St. Lawrence to climb again to the highland village of Saint-Irenee. We rejoin H138 in the resort city of La Malbaie where we stop for lunch. This city has a gorgeous golf course, a casino, and a Fairmont hotel among other tourist attractions such as great scenery, lakes, rivers, forests, and salt air. It is low tide and the bay is dry with many large boulders. Our awesome River Route ends at Saint-Simeon and we take Highway 170, the Fjord Route toward Saguenay City.
We have high hopes for this route and it reminds us of the road out to Tofino but where is the fjord? We ride more than 100 kms before we see the Saguenay River and we have yet to see a fjord. We spend the night at the Comfort Inn in Chicoutimi which is part of Saguenay City home to 146,000 people. To be fair it is a very pretty location and if the rain holds off we may see a fjord tomorrow.

Grosse Ile

2009-07-23T18:38:00.000-07:00

A history lesson, a spectacular cruise, and a day to reflect on how fortunate we are to be living in this time, in this land! We wanted a St Lawrence cruise experience, to view Quebec City from the river the way so many historical figures have first seen it, and to visit the site that Marlene’s grandparents most likely past through when they immigrated to Canada before WW1, so we are traveling with Croisieres Coudrier to Grosse Ile.
The boat we’re cruising in is like a large covered zodiac that carries up to 125 passengers although today it is not totally full. The boat departs at 10 am from the Old Port of Quebec and goes first to Ile d’Orleans, a large beautiful island: it has been farmed for four centuries, was the home of many seafaring people, and is now a summer residence for many Quebecers as the island was connected to the mainland by a bridge in 1935. We drop off and pick up passengers then travel another hour to Grosse Ile, one of 21 islands in the Ile-de-Grues archipelago.
Grosse Ile is a National Historic site that pays tribute to the role the island played , from 1832 to 1937, as the quarantine station for the port of Quebec. More than 4 million immigrants came to Canada and the USA through the principal gateway of the port of Quebec and all of them passed through this quarantine station that has been preserved and restored by Parks Canada. It is a haunting place but the island is so lovely on this sunny day that we feel the echoes of promise and hope, that brought so many immigrants to Canada. The history of Grosse Ile is fascinatingly presented by Parks Canada staff, some of them costumed and playing the roles of both immigrant and quarantine station staff, and by many informative murals, diagrams, and photographs, as well as, the buildings themselves. The four hours we are on the island speed by with barely enough time to eat our picnic lunch.
Grosse Ile also commemorates the tragic experience of many Irish immigrants to Canada especially during 1847, when due to the ongoing potato famine and political hardship in Ireland, almost 100,000 Irish tried to immigrate to Canada and were stricken by a typhus epidemic. More than 5,000 Irish immigrants are buried on Grosse Ile, and most of them died in 1847. There is an impressive Celtic Cross on a headland in the harbour that has served as an Irish Memorial for the last 100 years to these poor souls who died so far from their green homeland. There are also monuments that recognize the medical staff and religious orders that worked with sick immigrants, often contracting and often dying from diseases they came in contact with.
The disinfecting sheds make us shudder and we wonder what it must have been like to finally step onto land after so many days on a crowded ship and have to go through such an ordeal. Marlene remembers her grandfather talking about the sorrow and frustration he experienced when Canadian immigration officials anglicized his surname but, like many immigrants who survived and eventually prospered in Canada, he chose not to talk about the hardships he had endured to get here.
The sombre aspect of this place is balanced by its incredible beauty today on this river that looks like a sea. We enjoy our return cruise even more than the choppy outward trip as the river is very calm and there is much boat traffic, both commercial and recreational. We are not disappointed by our view of Quebec City from the river! The way back to our hotel is uphill and we are tired but we wind through the heritage that this city preserves and are so thankful that it has been preserved so well.

World Heritage Jewel

2009-07-22T18:04:00.000-07:00

When we arrived in sunny Quebec City yesterday afternoon we checked into our hotel the Relais Charles-Alexandre and immediately walked to the Old Town, Vieux-Quebec. It is our third visit to this historical city, that is like no other in North America, and we are already planning our next visit! We walked until our legs started screaming at us, reacquainting ourselves with precious sights and taking in the changes. Only Tylenol washed down with appropriate amounts of alcohol enabled us to sleep.
Although it is about a 10 minute walk to the walls of Old Quebec, our hotel is well located, only one block from both the Plains of Abraham Battlefields Park and the busy markets, restaurants, and shops of Avenue Cartier. We had considered staying within the walls but were worried about parking and our choice proves to be sound when we observe the signs that motorcycles are not permitted within the walls! The Relais Charles-Alexandre is a very pleasant hotel with an art gallery décor located in an earlier 20th century building on the Grande Allee. We particularly enjoy the excellent service at the continental breakfast served in a very cheerful dining room.
We awoke this morning to light rain but, grateful that we’re not riding, don our raingear and set out to further explore the city. The Fortifications and Citadel are first, as this is a city that, in our opinion, is defined by its military history. After that we simply wander the twisting, narrow streets of this unique city until once again our legs are reminding us of our age. As the rain has intensified we stop for lunch at a cosy restaurant in Place-Royale, a step back in time and Marlene’s favourite spot in this awesome city. A bottle of red wine later, we linger over coffee and dessert and reflect upon the rain which has certainly made Old Quebec much less crowded than usual.
It takes us a good hour to wander back to our hotel, arm-in-arm under a borrowed hotel umbrella, for an afternoon rest, after which we set out to buy picnic provisions for our expedition tomorrow to Grosse-Ile. We end up with two bottles of excellent French red wine because we can’t decide between them and both are well priced. We think Quebec must have some kind of wine trade agreement with France because we can’t buy French wine for these prices in BC! After supper and one bottle of the red that we have to sample, we set of for Battlefield Parks because the rain has stopped and it is too beautiful an opportunity to pass up.

King's Road (Chemin du Roy)

2009-07-21T07:30:00.000-07:00

We continue riding the authentic route that follows the history of New France into the 21st century. The weather is good, the highway (mostly H138) is well marked with the King’s Road symbols, and the villages, manors, and ancestral homes are stunning. We stop in Cap-de-la-Madeleine at the Sanctuaire Notre-Dame-du-Cap (Shrine of Our Lady of the Cape), an important 17th-century shrine and the national shrine of the Madonna and pilgrimage site today. It is a beautiful place with extensive grounds to accommodate huge crowds, although this morning it is quiet. The Cathedral has impressive stained-glass windows and an imposing Casavant organ. There is even a RV site on the St. Lawrence and these pilgrims have the best camping spot for miles around!
There are so many well-maintained rest stops with great views of the river and farm markets with all kinds of food that we are reminded of the one regret we have as motorcyclists, that we are unable to carry or purchase food enroute so impromptu picnics are difficult.
Travelling the King’s Road is a step back in time and when we stop in Batiscan for gas (because we’ve not seen many stations) the busy pumps are not set up for credit cards. All motorcyclists pump their own gas (full-service or not) and before Barry has removed the nozzle an old man is screeching “onze dollars bla-bla-bla” in our faces. We finally understand that he is reminding us that we owe him $11.83, as he precedes me into the station yelling all the way. The young man at the till (perhaps his grandson) blithely ignores him and I pay in cash because I don‘t wish to incur further embarrassment by fumbling through a credit card transaction. We eat an excellent lunch in the restaurant adjoining where we can watch the old guy do his number on other travellers. The restaurant does not accept credit cards either but we have lots of cash as we always travel prepared!
Beyond Batiscan there are bluffs along the St. Lawrence and increasingly the picturesque villages are perched on cliff tops. Some of these villages conceal magnificent stone homes built from the 17th to 19th centuries, a legacy of the French Regime. Inns, restaurants, artisans' studios and old-time general stores could keep you busy for days in these historic buildings. We ride, with occasional stops, through the architectural heritage of Champlain, Deschambault, La Perade, St. Charles-des-Grondines, Donnacona, Cap-Santé and Neuville. Many of these villages are members of the Most Beautiful Villages of Québec network and they certainly live up to their reputation.

Biker Bonanza

2009-07-20T17:46:00.000-07:00

With a few delays due to road reconstruction, we make a bittersweet departure from Ottawa. It is always hard to say good bye to family but the challenges and excitement of Quebec await us! We have gathered lots of information on “la belle Province” as we are basically unilingual and always feel somewhat at a disadvantage in Quebec, where the first and sometimes only language is French.
Quebec Tourism has divided the area we are riding today into four regions: Outaouais, Laurentides, Lanaudiere, and Mauricie. As these titles are meaningless to us, our route is Highway 148, 158, and 138. We begin on the north side of the Ottawa River, riding through Gatineau, the gateway to Gatineau Park, a beautiful year-round recreational environment, that we visited years ago in autumn and will never forget. The park is crossed by a 34km-long road dotted with panoramic lookout points and we are sorry we are not riding it today.
Once we’re clear of the city, we roll through the mainly agricultural land that borders the wide Ottawa River. It is Monday so lines of bright washing wave us along. There are many small ferries crossing the river to Ontario destinations on the south shore. Further down the Ottawa River, the wetland Parc National de Plaisance, welcomes thousands of Canada geese who stop over on their spring and fall migratory routes. At Montebello there is a national historic site at Manoir Papineau, that we skip as we’ve finally got back into sync with the bike after a week of not riding and we don’t want to interrupt it.
Just east of Calumet, because we wish to skirt Montreal , we veer away from the Ottawa River and head toward Lachute where generous downtown parking contributes to a lively lunch crowd, including us! We have visited Montreal twice: the first time we drove our car and experienced frustration, the second time we took the VIA rail train and experienced a good time but nothing so outstanding that we feel compelled to revisit on this trip. The traffic thickens, busy roads criss-cross our path, and building construction intensifies as we approach Mirabel, and we are amazed that this airport, so far from Montreal, generates such activity.
We have good intentions to stop at the national historic site in Saint Lin-Laurentides that commemorates Sir Wilfrid-Laurier, however, we only see it from our seat as it’s on a wicked corner and we’re wedged between two semi-trailers on a very busy narrow street that doubles as the highway through this small town. Today’s route is very interesting as it passes through many small towns where the many houses perched on the side of the highway provide a charming view of small-town Quebec but it’s also a very busy route with many fluctuations in speed limit and many bumps!
Just east of Berthierville we turn onto Highway 138 and catch our first dramatic views of the storied St. Lawrence River at Lac Saint-Pierre, a World Biosphere Reserve. This area is a large flood plain, a resting spot for migrating water fowl, and the largest archipelago (some 100 islands) in the St. Lawrence. Highway 138 is, for the most part, also the King's Road (Chemin du Roy), the oldest roadway in Canada. Built in 1737, the King’s Road linked New France's three largest cities: Montréal, Trois-Rivières and Québec City. It follows the St. Lawrence and provides us with a delightful ride to Trois-Rivières.
We are staying at the Delta Hotel because it is right in the downtown core, which adjoins the harbour front park and the historic district. The hotel is a bit lack-lustre for the price, poorly signed, and charges extra for parking and the internet connection, which really bugs Barry! Old Trois-Rivières, founded in 1634 where three forks of the Saint-Maurice Rivers flow into the St. Lawrence river, is a city with much Old World charm. The terrace overlooking the St. Lawrence at Parc Portuaire is particularly nice and we enjoy a walking tour past many buildings classified as historic monuments, such as the Old Prison, today a museum. Another important site, the Forges du Saint-Maurice National , preserves the remains of Canada’s first ironworks, but is not within walking distance.
Trois-Rivières has a very vibrant downtown with rows of busy patio restaurants, trendy shops, and many nightclubs. We have seen lots of motorcycles in Quebec, many with couples riding pillion like us, and observe that Trois-Rivières is a popular destination for bikers. The downtown core has great bike parking (paid) at the heart of all the best sights and restaurants. We are very glad we gathered much information and walking tour maps in English before we came, as every interpretive and informative sign, plaque, and inscription is in French only!

A Diamond in Ottawa’s Crown

2009-07-19T17:44:00.000-07:00

Last night Barry met, for the first time, some second and third cousins and today he, his brother-in-law and one cousin are going motorcycle riding to Manotick. Marlene, who is enjoying not riding, is going to the must-see Canadian Museum of Civilization. The site of this museum complex, on the Ottawa river across from the Parliament Buildings, provides awesome views, beautiful grounds, incredible architecture, restaurants, boutiques, and an IMAX cinema. The museum itself highlights the rich heritage of Canada’s various cultural groups, as well as Aboriginal arts and traditions, special exhibitions such as Mystic Creatures in three galleries, the popular Canadian Children’s Museum, and the intriguing Canadian Postal Museum. One can easily spend a full day at this jewel, resting and reflecting in the Grand Hall where the cultural heritage of the West Coast First Nations soars to great heights.
Barry’s sister and husband have been great hosts and we are enjoying the our meals which include this colourful easy to prepare summer salad:

Wenda’s Corny Salsa Salad
2 cans of niblets corn drained
1 cup mango salsa
¼ cup green onions chopped
2 fresh peaches or 1 large mango diced
1 tomato diced
Mix all ingredients and chill to serve

Lovin The Sights

2009-07-18T14:09:00.000-07:00

There has been a storm overnight and the morning is cloudy so we don our raingear before setting out on a walking tour of downtown Ottawa. We walk the length of Rideau Street because it is lined with magnificent building, museums, and statues including the Parliament Buildings, the Supreme Court, the National Archives, and the War Memorial. There are many sightseers who could be from all over the world judging from their dress and the variety of languages we hear, however, they might all be Canadians and part of the great mosaic that is Canada.
We ramble down to the Byward Market, to ogle the outdoor vendors with their overflowing stands of fresh fruit and vegetables, flowers, and crafts; have a bite of lunch; and enjoy the many charming shops. The Byward Market (Byward is the original name of Ottawa) is off George Street on Byward and William Street. Many of the local shoppers have come on their bicycles as Ottawa is known to be cycling friendly and there is even supervised bicycle parking.
Full of sights, smells, and lunch we stroll past the heavily fortified American Embassy along Sussex Drive to the National Gallery of Canada and the Samuel de Champlain statue which has awesome views of the Ottawa river and Parliament Hill. Ottawa is a city where one really needs a week to see all the sights but we have seen many of them on previous trips.

Canada’s Capital

2009-07-17T14:05:00.000-07:00

Ottawa is a monarch of a city - a trait embodied by the Parliament buildings with its Changing the Guard ceremony. Barry’s sister Wenda and her husband, Graham have also found it an eminently liveable place for the last thirty years, enjoying the city’s many gardens, parks, recreational and cultural attractions, as well as employment in the federal government and its spin-offs. The Ottawa area has nationally esteemed universities, several outstanding museums, the national arts centre, and a walkway all along the Rideau Canal that is a must-do!
Today though we only walk along Mooney Bay to Hogs Back Park where there is both a lock station and an impressive waterfall on the Rideau River right in the middle of this huge urban area, known as the National Capital Region. The Rideau Canal connects Ottawa to Kingston and Lake Ontario, 202 kilometres to the south. The National Capital Region is home to about 1.8 million and includes the city of Ottawa, Ontario and its surrounding area: Nepean, Kanata, Gloucester, etc. and Gatineau, Quebec located on the Ottawa River across from Ottawa.

Grace Locksley

2009-07-16T14:02:00.000-07:00

We’ve spent the last four nights with Marlene’s brother Clair who is a pastor at Grace Lutheran Church Locksley. He and His wife Joan live in a dignified, charmingly decorated, old brick three story house on the church property. The beautiful old church sits on rural acreage serving the local farming district of Locksley and others as it has for more than 100 years. On the west side of the property there is an impressive lovingly-tended graveyard where one can witness the history of the settlers who came to this part of the Ottawa Valley and their ties to the land they love. Rural churches with well-kept graveyards are part of the charm of eastern Canada where the history of settlement goes back further than in western Canada. Of course many old buildings in the east are constructed of brick or stone and have withstood the ravages of fire that has consumed many old timber-built buildings in Western Canada.
The four of us have spent the last three days exploring back roads: looking at waterfowl on the many small lakes and rivers, viewing prosperous farms with some very aged but still functioning buildings, investigating unique fence constructions, searching for cleverly designed mail boxes, and enjoying the rich, flavourful ice cream that dairy-producing districts make so well.
Although it is unlikely that any of the four of us will retire here as our adult children and commitments call us elsewhere, we understand why many others choose to retire here. We are imbued with the peacefulness and charm of this area and could imagine ourselves spending many happy years rambling as we’ve done the last three days, especially as we’ve hardly explored the many picturesque small towns with very interesting looking shops and restaurants. Barry is not a shopper and one of the things he likes best about the motorcycle is that we are forced to travel light - doing minimal shopping for essential items only. Of course Marlene has been known to ship items home that she simply could not resist!
We hate leaving today as we have enjoyed Joan and Clair’s company and hospitality so much, however, we are all close to retirement which will enable us to travel more frequently and come here more often. Grace Locksley will always be a special place for us because it bears the same name as Barry’ brother Locksley who died too young from prostate cancer three years ago. Locksley, who was always full of grace, would have loved this elegant heritage property and the serenity one feels here.
We are riding some country roads, H17 in sections, River Road along the Ottawa river between Renfrew and Arnprior (where the horses for the RCMP Musical Ride are raised), and a variety of secondary roads to avoid construction and congestion on the TransCanada highway into Ottawa. This route is not faster or shorter but it is scenic and an easier adjustment to riding after three days off the motorcycle. We will spend the next three days with Barry’s sister, Wenda enjoying more pampering and the sights of Canada’s stunning national capital, Ottawa.

Joys of Home Cooking

2009-07-15T15:04:00.000-07:00

Marlene’s sister-in-law, Joan, is among many other things, a great cook. She grows a large vegetable garden so many of her delicious dishes include the vegetables and herbs she has grown. The weather has been cool with occasional rain showers - perfect for visiting and sharing her hearty, chunky, three-bean soup:

Joan’s Heart Healthy Vegetable Soup
2 large onions chopped
3 garlic cloves chopped
4 cups water
2 potatoes cubed
3 carrots sliced
1 tsp. oregano or a few sprigs if fresh
2 tsp. basil or a handful of leaves if fresh
1 can pinto beans (19 oz)
1 can kidney beans or lima beans
1 can garbanzo beans
Salt and pepper to taste
Method: Bring onions, garlic, water, potatoes, carrots, and herbs to a boil and simmer about 15 minutes. Add beans, salt & pepper and cook until vegetables are tender. Enjoy!

Bring Them Home

2009-07-14T14:59:00.000-07:00

We will be in the Ottawa River Valley for a week, first in the Upper Ottawa area around Petawawa/Pembroke and then riding down to the capital city of Canada, stately Ottawa. The Ottawa (Outaouais) is a huge beautiful river that forms the border between Quebec and Ontario. It was once the main route of fur-trappers travelling out each spring to the Canadian Shield and back in the fall to Montreal with their precious cargo of pelts and we will follow it in stretches almost to Montreal.
Petawawa and Pembroke are side-by-side cities of about 15,000 inhabitants each that have both used their river frontage well by incorporating many beautiful parks and leisure areas. Petawawa, a newer city than Pembroke, includes a large Canadian Forces (Army) Base that drives the economy of the city. Pembroke, has many historical buildings including magnificent churches, and the first-rate Champlain Trail Pioneer Village and Museum that documents the areas lumbering and settlement history. It is hard to believe that Samuel de Champlain was this far northwest in 1614 as we will run encounter many other places he explored as we travel east and south. We enjoy the Pembroke Heritage Murals, some good restaurants, including the Nook Creperiere, and the delectably rich ice cream at Brum’s Diary.
Canadian flag banners billow proudly on the main streets in Petawawa, where “Welcome Home Troop” signs and the yellow ribbon symbols that support our troops are everywhere. We wonder what it’s like to live in a community where so many members have been killed in Afghanistan since Canadian troops entered the war. The mood is upbeat the day we visit as the troops from Petawawa are just home from their tour-of-duty and it is the Vandoos turn in Afghanistan. But how can there not be great sadness too in this community, as in all of Canada, when so many have not come home safely and so many will suffer for years from Post Traumatic Stress disorders?
We have a special nephew who has done a tour in Afghanistan and one of Marlene’s “little” brothers and our niece’s partner will be deployed to Afghanistan in the fall so we have some personal experience of the courage and sense of duty that takes Canadian servicemen to this war and also the worry and conflict of their loved-ones left behind. Neither of us can remember when Canada began the slippery slide down the slope from the peace-keeper role that Lester B. Pearson envisioned for Canadian soldiers to the full-combat role they currently hold. We hope that Canadian soldiers can become peacekeepers again and in the meantime we wish them safely home!

Gonna Wash That Dust Right Out Of Our Gear

2009-07-13T08:19:00.000-07:00

Oh, the luxury of washers, dryers, and a garage for the bike! Marlene’s brother Clair and wife, Joan were waiting for us on their veranda when we arrived last night and we are enjoying some first-rate pampering. The first thing on the agenda (after the care of the bike) is laundry, as everything we own has now been washed at least once in a hotel room sink and is dirty again. We are grateful for all the stylish travel and adventure clothing available these days that is fast-drying, lightweight, and is suitable for both cold weather because it can be layered and also for hot-weather because it breathes.
As the last few days have been cold and windy we are especially glad for the high-tech advances in gear that allow us considerable comfort and convenience, first and foremost of which are heated vests/jackets. We wear Black Jack (Electrowear Mfg) heated full-sleeve jackets because they help extend the riding season for us, making cool spring days and crisp autumn days a joy rather than a shiver, not to forget their worth on cold early mornings, on high mountain roads, and in bad weather. More than once we’ve endured a sudden rainstorm light hearted, even when we’re caught without our rain gear on, knowing our jackets are ready to plugged in and instantly toasty. At every rest stop where bikers congregate after a storm to wring out and dry off their gear, those riders with heated vests/jackets (they’re the ones with the biggest smiles) are endorsing these wonderful jackets.

A Long and Winding Road

2009-07-12T08:06:00.000-07:00

This morning as there are no coffee making implements in our motel room Barry walks two blocks to the nearest restaurant and brings back coffee - isn’t that what love is! It is a beautiful morning with minimal wind and if we’ve learned one thing on all our travels it is to savour the moment especially if it involves weather. So we sit on the curb in front of our room, sip coffee, and observe our fellow travellers greet the day. One young fellow looks at us and asks incredulously “You have coffee in your room?”. We point him in the right direction. The couple to our immediate left eyes us suspiciously as they load their car - and we try to imagine what they’re thinking: a couple of rode-worn bikers getting their morning fix.
A young man from Manitoba, originally from the West Indies, saunters over to talk. His job involves taking applications for car purchases from First Nation people and he is attending the annual Sagamowoc Assinabe Powwow that is taking place here in Massey this weekend. He and his partner travel in a company vehicle from powwow to powwow and receive $1000 for every application that results in a purchase. He wears much gold jewellery which we conjecture is either a ‘dress-for-success‘ strategy or a way of carrying all his worldly possessions on his person. He talks about the 18 hours of solid driving between here and Winnipeg but also how much he likes the opportunities to talk and to travel his job permits. We are reminded of all the many people we’ve met who have come to Canada and been overwhelmed by its beauty, its size, and the friendliness of its people.
The Serpent River First Nation and other First Nation tribes live on much of the land where we are riding and in the nearby Mississagi Provincial Park campers can participate in Gitchi Manito Ekinamadiwin (Great Spirit Teachings) learning about the local Ojibway culture. What a wonderful opportunity! The Serpent and the Mississagi rivers and many lakes will wind along Highway 17 with us today. We stop for breakfast about a half hour down the road where there is a gas station and a very busy Tim Horton’s sitting out in the middle of nowhere in the trees - only in Canada, eh?
Sadly the weather deteriorates as the morning progresses and we reconsider making another try to the Manitoulin Islands from Espanola and press on to Sudbury instead. Huge smokestacks and even higher telecommunication and power transmission towers are almost all we see of Sudbury as H17 bypasses this city of mining, smelting, refining, and geological science. It is a surprising flat landscape but geologists believe the mineral-rich Sudbury Basin was formed 2 billion years ago when a huge meteorite struck.
We ride through a beautiful landscape of ponds, rivers, beaver dams, and timber. There are many anglers and canoeists, some packing their canoes down the side of the highway to launch and many with their canoes tied to small rough campsites on rocky overhangs or small sandy beaches. The wind has picked up and the sky is overcast and we hope these campers have good raingear (like we do).
North Bay is our late lunch destination and although we hoped to eat near the lakeshore to take in the view, that is not to be as it’s spitting rain, cold, and very windy. We ride along Lakeshore Drive and watch large waves breaking on the grey, forbidding surface of Lake Nipissing. This is a beautiful lakeshore that the people of North Bay can be rightly proud of and we try to imagine it on a better day. We linger over an excellent lunch at Kristelle’s Deli and Bakery before facing the road again.
We are very tired today and if we weren’t expected by Marlene’s brother Clair in Pembroke, Ontario we would stop, as the sky is dark and the road seems long. To be fair, this is a very scenic highway and we follow the impressive Ottawa River all the way from Mattawa to Pembroke.

No Campin’, No Cookin’

2009-07-11T19:04:00.000-07:00

It was difficult to get going this morning and the 11 am check-out time arrived too soon! The three hour time change and 5162 kms have caught up with these two old bikers. We spent the night at the very nice BW in Sault Ste Marie, MI so we could spend some time exploring the Soo Locks from the American perspective.
Sault Ste Marie, Michigan has a much smaller population than the city of the same name on the opposite side of the St. Mary’s River, however, it has excellent tourist services. In the old downtown area there are a number of attractions such as a museum ship, a tower lookout, and lock cruises that can be quite pricey. The best attraction, the Soo Locks Park, is free and includes elevated walk ways that overlook the three massive American locks where all the commercial traffic moves, an interpretation center, and a pretty park on the bank of the St. Mary’s River. Although there are no big freighters moving through the locks while we‘re there, we are lucky enough to see the locks in action as two of the cruise ships are taking tourists out and back to Lake Superior.
It is quite fascinating to watch the water inside the locks being raised or lowered 21 feet as that is the difference in height between Lake Superior and the St. Mary’s River. These locks connect Lake Superior, via the river, to the other Great Lakes and the St. Lawrence Seaway. It is a bright but cold, windy day and we are grateful for the warmth of our leathers as we watch all the visitors in shorts shivering. There are many bikes in town as the American Legion has organized a big rally. Although we ride over for a brief look at the bikes, we haven’t the time and probably the energy to participate in the activities!
When you ride motorcycle you have many unexpected conversations with people, (such as border guards) and this day is no exception, as the security guard at the Soo Lock Park wants to talk. The Americans have very tight security around their locks: high fences, very controlled viewing areas, and guards who search your bags and purses as you enter the park. Under their somewhat crusty exteriors most of these people love to talk as it makes their day more interesting. Our guard wants to know where we’ve been, what we’re riding, etc., and then tell us his riding experiences with his wife, which summed up is no campin‘, no cookin’.
A long toll bridge connects the two cities of Sault Ste Marie. Sault means waterfall or rapids so the name translates as St. Mary’s Falls. Sault Ste Marie, Ontario was established in the 1600's as a fur trading post, later in the 1900's as a site for steelmaking and remains an important port and manufacturing center. The city is also a tourist center and the gateway to hunting and fishing resorts in nearby lake and forest regions. The area is one of the oldest European settlements in Ontario and there is an impressive National Historic Site near the base of the bridge where one can view the Canadian lock (which moves recreational traffic) and walk over to St. Mary‘s Island. There are many historical buildings in the city and we ride slowly along Bay Street so we can stop and take some photos, especially at the Ermatinger Clergue National Historic Site.
We had intended to ride over to St. Joseph Island, one of the Manitoulin islands, as we’ve heard it’s very interesting but the wind is brutal today and riding is very hard on Highway17. Although the sky is mostly cloudless there are very bad weather reports from south and mid Ontario that we’re concerned about. So we decide to ride instead of sightsee but the wind doesn’t let up in this area of about 60 miles where three Great Lakes: Michigan, Superior, and Huron come close to one another. Although the area has rugged shores, sandy beaches, much forests, winding rivers, and great views of Lake Huron, we struggle to stay on the bike. Rounding one particularly windy corner we drive by a semi that‘s laying on its side in the ditch and we‘re sure the wind played a big part in the accident. We concede to the wind in Massey and take a room at the only motel in town. It has a 3-star rating (not in this galaxy) but is clean and we’re able to walk to the Chutes (yet another French word for waterfall) Provincial Park before supper. The weather forecast is better for tomorrow.

Tardy But Travelling

2009-07-10T19:59:00.000-07:00

When travelling on a motorcycle it is always important to do a daily pre-ride inspection which includes checking tire pressures. Our back tire has been losing pressure and yesterday was down to 29 pounds pressure. Barry added some air and we rode for the day, however, this morning the pressure was down to 19 pounds. Obviously there is a leak in the tire and fortunately we only have to backtrack 5 miles to a Harley dealer. A big thanks to Vandervest Harley Davidson of Peshtigo, Wisconsin, who took the bike in right away and had us back on our way in an hour and a half, with a new tire and a oil change! We had enjoyed a particularly excellent complimentary breakfast at the Comfort Inn, Marinette, and they were kind enough to allow Marlene to stay at the motel beyond the check-out time while the repairs were done. We were impressed by the friendliness, service, and value of this motel, which just added to our already great impression of Wisconsin.
About noon we cross the Menominee River and enter Michigan. We are riding Highway 35N along the shoreline of Lake Michigan, which is so big it seems like the ocean but it doesn’t smell as nice! It is windy and from the appearance of the scrubby trees we surmise that wind is a constant on this side of the lake. This area, referred to as the Upper Peninsula, has much lake front real estate for sale. At Rapid River we take Highway 2 east and ride through the small closely- set trees of Hiawatha National Forest. The land is flat so the road is very straight most of the time which is a bonus because it‘s only two lanes and has much traffic. At Blaney Park we jog north on H77, then east on H28, and finally get on to H123, the road through Tahquamenon Falls State Park.
This park boasts one of the largest falls east of the Mississippi and is a very pleasant camping and hiking destination. The country around the park is full of vacation cabins. When we arrive in Paradise (a bit of wishful thinking in this name) we get our first view of Lake Superior. We take the twisty road north to the oldest active lighthouse on Lake superior, dating from 1849, the Whitefish Point Lighthouse. This part of Lake Superior is called the “graveyard of the great lakes” because so many ships have sunk here, including the Edmund Fitzgerald, that ship that Gordon Lightfoot made famous in his song “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald”.
Whitefish Point provides us with a spectacular view of some freighters on Lake Superior and its windy log-strewn sandy shoreline. Gitchigumi is the Chippewa name for Lake Superior, the most treacherous of the five great lakes. Whitefish Point has a number of attractive sites to see in addition to the restored lighthouse, including the Shipwreck Museum, a United States Coast Guard Lifeboat Station, a couple of gift shops, and even accommodation in a restored USCG Crew Quarters. When we arrive at Whitefish Point we are surprised to learn we have lost an hour - we’ve crossed a time zone without knowing and it is later than we think! We ride along scenic Whitefish Bay to Sault Ste Marie, Michigan for the night.

We Walk the Line

2009-07-09T19:42:00.000-07:00

After a tasty breakfast in the Library of the Iron Horse, a hotel we can highly recommend, we set off across Milwaukee to Harley-Davidson Powertrain Operations for the factory tour. The factory where a motor motorcycle like ours is assembled is not open to the public so we have to make do with viewing the manufacture of what drives a motorcycle namely the engine and the transmission. The castings for most of the parts are done by an outside company, shipped here and then machined in this factory. We must stay within the walk lines in this busy, hot place where it is quite something to watch the activity of both humans and robots. This location only manufactures engines and transmissions for the smaller motorcycles up to 1200 cc, however, it also does remans - the remanufacture of all size engines including the powerhouse 110 cubic inch Screaming Eagle (Barry‘s next life).
We shop at the Milwaukee Harley Davidson dealer picking up our requisite souvenirs and some screws (we’ve only lost one but bound to lose more).
The weather is very fine so we set off toward Green Bay on highway 45, hoping to ride through the Kettle Moraine State Forests, however, somehow we miss the turn-off. Rather than backtrack we decide to ride some county roads as they are in really good condition in Wisconsin and take us through some very interesting landscapes. We travel a long way on county road W which is very interesting because it criss-crosses an area where many huge wind turbines are generating power. We are riding with the wind today, a nice change, as we can travel much farther on a tank of gas. Gas costs less in America than it does in Canada but after one factors in the exchange rate it’s only a bit less. But we’re not complaining as the beer is considerably less!
We try to move over to highway 55 so we can ride along Lake Winnebago, however, the bridges along this route are being replaced and we have to make many detours. It’s very difficult to get road conditions on secondary, particularly county roads and there is much road construction everywhere we‘ve travelled - perhaps it is due to the Stimulus Programs. We are finally successful in seeing Lake Winnebago and cut our time losses by riding on Interstate 41 from the top of the lake through Green Bay, stopping in Marinette for the night.
Once again today we have ridden through beautiful farmland and occasionally breathed in the aroma of manure which dairy farmers fondly refer to as the “smell of money”. Northeastern Wisconsin has much timber so lumbering is an important industry and we‘ve also smelled the tang of freshly cut wood. There are also many rivers that are popular for recreational fishing and boating. At the Comfort Inn where we are spending the night there are at least six vehicles trailering what appear to be some very fast boats. We have thoroughly enjoyed our travel in Wisconsin and will miss it when we cross the Menominee River into Michigan tomorrow.

Pilgrimage to Milwaukee

2009-07-08T18:51:00.000-07:00

Well! You know it’s going to happen on a motorcycle trip: RAIN! After so many days of nice weather it was bound to happen, however, the rain was light and just reminded us that to expect the weather to be perfect for an entire trip is unrealistic. We have to ride Interstate 94 into Milwaukee as it’s the only way we know to get to the Harley Davidson Museum and although we are dreading riding it in the rain, we have quite a decent ride.
The Harley Davidson Museum, which just opened last year in celebration of HD’s 105th anniversary, is located on 20 acres in downtown Milwaukee, a reclaimed industrial site. It has wonderful exhibits and every bike of the hundreds in the museum has its own story to tell. The museum tells the history and culture of Harley Davidson without shoving HD in your face. Marlene also now knows everything she ever needs to know about 4-stroke engines: suck, squeeze, bang, blow!
There are 2 restaurants on site, one for fast food called the Racer and a upscale restaurant called the Motor where we enjoy a very satisfying lunch in an edgy, friendly atmosphere. The HD museum offers many outdoor spaces which include a lovely walk along the canal (a tributary of the Milwaukee River) and priority front-door parking for motorcycles.
We could see our hotel, The Iron Horse, from the Harley Davidson Museum which made it very easy to get to. Of course this was all part of the plan. The Iron Horse, a modern luxury boutique hotel with unique amenities designed for motorcyclists (like free parking for 2 wheelers) is a splurge for us but one we’ve been looking forward too. It is gorgeous! It began as a bedding factory and is part of the revitalization that is making downtown Milwaukee such an inviting experience.
We chose this hotel for its uniqueness and proximity to the museum and downtow and in the late afternoon we set off on a walking tour. We take the River Walk along Water Street through the Historic Third Ward and see many interesting historic buildings and funky shops. It feels good to stretch our legs after so many days of riding and we head to the shores of Lake Michigan to take in the views of the Milwaukee County War Memorial Complex, the Art Museum, and Discovery World at Pier Wisconsin. The downtown lake front is very beautiful and one can walk for miles in both directions.
Marlene’s choice for dinner is Karl Ratzsch’s Old World Restaurant on Mason Street where we stuff ourselves with delicious German specialties and share bottle of Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Valley where we we’ve spent many memorable summer vacations. On our walk back to the hotel the clouds are breaking and we enjoy a stunning sunset from our 4th floor window - a great day and well worth the effort to get here!

Follow the Rivers

2009-07-07T19:46:00.000-07:00

Today was a non-stop panorama of rivers, bluffs, wooded valleys, rich dairyland, and historic picturesque small towns - the best riding we’ve had so far! We began by cruising once more through lovely Redwing, then headed south on MD highway 61. This section of the Mississippi has been backed up by locks and dams to form Lake Pepin and has a number of resorts and recreation facilities. About 35 miles downstream we cross to the Wisconsin side of the Mississippi at Wabasha because we’ve been told the scenery is better on that side. We are not disappointed with WI highway 35!
There are many sets of locks on the river that we choose not to tour as we can see them very well from the road and have actually passed through locks in boats which is more exciting than standing on them today. The locks provide the valuable purpose of controlling flooding further down river. The Upper Mississippi River is a very large impressive river at this point and the countryside is so green! When we stop at Fountain City to snap some photos of an old riverboat we realize that it is about 80F and quite humid. When we‘re moving we stay comfortable but it‘s hot in our leathers whenever we stop.
We’ve planned to stop in La Crosse, the biggest town on this section of the river and discover it’s actually a city so the map we have is totally inadequate. We manage to give ourselves a unintended tour of the historic downtown area and decide to have lunch and ask directions before getting more lost. Believe it or not, as we are eating our delicious lunch at the King Street Kitchen we notice a turtle about the size of a dinner plate making its way down the side of the very busy street outside. There was no sign of it after lunch so we can only assume it traveled safely too. A ride up to Grandad Bluff gave us a tremendous view of the city of La Crosse and the Black River as it empties into the Mississippi.
We travel WI35 to Prairie du Chien, a river town just north of where the Wisconsin River joins the Mississippi. We leave the Great River Road here, heading on WI60 to begin the Wisconsin River Scenic Drive. This drive is as beautiful as the one we’ve just completed with beautiful farms, lush green corn and hay fields, river-edged bluffs, and sandstone outcroppings. We have the road almost completely to ourselves and we are sure it was constructed just for motorcycles! The Wisconsin River is very broad with sandy banks and it is said that it looks much as it did when French explorers Jacques Marquette and Louis Jolliet paddled the route in 1673 searching for the Mississippi.
We stop for the night at another BW about 5 miles from Lodi. Had we known it was that far, we may have eaten in Lodi, as the choices within walking distance of this motel are all fast food. It is always tricky trying to find good accommodation within walking distance of good restaurants in North America as we’re such a car culture. The sky looks very threatening but we’ve had great weather once again today.

Twin Cities, Twin Blunders, Twin Smiles

2009-07-06T19:58:00.000-07:00

We rode from Fargo, ND to Fergus Falls, MN for a delicious brunch at Debbie’s Homestyle Kitchen. We are riding Interstate 94 for a while again today to gain some distance. I94 passes through gently rolling agricultural country with beautiful farms and many corn fields. Minnesota advertises itself as the land of 10,000 lakes and many of them are evident on our route.
One of the great things about riding motorcycle is the connection one feels to the countryside: the smells, the temperature, the wind, etc. In Montana and North Dakota the farmers were mowing hay and although both of us suffer from hay fever, the smell was wonderful. We are always impressed by the prairie farmers in Canada and America who mow and bale the hay just off the shoulder of the highways. We speculate that this service reduces fires and wildlife grazing and we hope the hard-working farmers we wave to get some remuneration for it.
The downside of being closer to the elements are the bugs, bugs, and more bugs. We cover the front of the bike everyday with a large variety of them, which bothers Barry more than me, as he feels responsible for keeping the bike clean. We’ve had excellent weather: warm with cloudy periods, some rain at night but dry roads for riding. We’ve also encountered the occasional stench of a skunk and the heady aroma of manure.
We are compelled to ride I94 through the twin cities of Minneapolis/St.Paul as we don’t have the time to ride around them, so we bite down hard and go for it. Two missed exits out of eight isn’t that bad when you recognize your error and correct it as soon as possible (so I tell Barry). He is a very cool rider in tense situations and I am an anxious navigator but we are still sleeping with each other tonight so it‘s all good.
We leave for Interstates for the calm of Highway 52S to Highway 61S, the Great River Road along the Mississippi River. We actually had our first glimpse of the Mississippi River in St.Paul but we were really much to involved with traffic to appreciate it. Our final destination this afternoon is the charming, historic city of Red Wing located on the bluffs along the Mississippi. Red Wing is on many “must see” lists and it is a very interesting river town with many historic buildings.
We are staying at the very clean and attractive Best Western Rivertown Inn. Advertised as only 6 blocks from the river we are disappointed that walking to the river is not an option because of a lack of sidewalks and heavy traffic on the 4 lane highway that divides the motel from the riverside. We often stay in chain hotels such as Best Western and Comfort Inns when we are doing one night stays as we can depend on them being clean, quiet and accessible. We have travelled 3,489 kms safely, from Vancouver Island to the mighty Mississippi, and we celebrate with a picnic supper (but not by the river) and a 6-pack of Miller Genuine Draft!

Five Hundred Miles

2009-07-05T22:00:00.000-07:00

A very long day of riding! We try to avoid riding early in the morning or into the evening because of the large number of wild animals on the roads, especially the roads-less-traveled that we enjoy. Today, however, we’ve chosen to do a stretch on Interstate 94 this evening because we want to wind along the Lewis and Clark Trail that follows the Missouri River through scenic western North Dakota.
Our riding routine is to have a small breakfast at our lodging place and much of the accommodation in North American even includes a Continental breakfast. So it is about 8:30 when we leave Glasgow heading east on Highway 2. This is Sunday of the July 4th long weekend in America and the towns are very quiet but the recreation areas are very busy!
We stop for brunch in Williston shortly after crossing the state border and realize there was a time change so it is actually lunchtime. The Lewis and Clark State Park is just east of Williston and the turn-off for historic Fort Union and Fort Buford is just west. We turn on to highway 1804 here and will follow it along the Missouri to 178-mile-long Lake Sakakawea which was formed when the Garrison Dam backed up the river. This is a spectacular drive of sparkling water, rolling hills, striking mesas and buttes, and historic Indian sites. There are scenic drives on either side of the lake and we stay on the north side until we hit ND highway 83 which will take us down to Interstate 94. Highway 83 runs through historic Washburn, a riverboat town in the late 1800s, as it occupies a bluff on the Missouri. The ND Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center is located here and offers wonderful views of the river in the short section where it is not dammed. Fort Mandan, where Lewis and Clark wintered in 1804-05 is 3 miles west of Washburn.
It was a great ride for sight-seeing but we have 4 hours of very hard riding on Interstate 94 to Fargo before we can call it a day.

When We Grow To Old To Dream We’ll Have This To Remember

2009-07-04T21:48:00.000-07:00

Black Diamond is a bit of a detour that we made because Marlene’s Uncle Bill is celebrating his 80th birthday; three summers ago we came this way to help Aunty Norma celebrate her 80th. Norma and Bill are the kind of octogenarians everyone aspires to be: Norma still owns and regularly rides her horse, they are very active in their community, and they go camping and attend Cowboy Poetry events all over Alberta and Montana. Norma’s doctors caution her repeatedly about the dangers of riding at her age but she always says “I’ll ride until I can’t get my foot in the stirrups! If I fall and can’t ride anymore, think about all the great rides I’ll have to remember when sitting is all I have left!”
Black Diamond is typical of small Alberta towns but its proximity to expanding Calgary threatens to turn it into a bedroom community. It is a place where everyone knows everyone else and when we celebrate with an excellent chinese food buffet at Diamond Valley Restaurant Norma and Bill are greeted by almost all the many patrons and staff. We could have chosen to revisit the Black Diamond Hotel which is renowned for its award-winning food and is also a very popular motorbike destination but that will have to wait for our next trip.
It is Stampede week and when we head out Highway 7 we pass Ford 350’s, driven by sweet young cowgirls, pulling big horse trailers with rodeo costumes hanging in the cab, heading to the Calgary Stampede . We head south on Highway 2 at High River and speed by two spectacular attractions we’ve explored on prior trips that cannot go unmentioned. The first is the world heritage site of Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, an awesome, timeless place with so much significance it make you shiver! The second is the North West Mounted Police historic district of Fort Macleod on the Oldman River.
Skirting Lethbridge we head south on Highway 4 to cross the Canadian/American border at Coutts/Sweetgrass. We have to wait with a group of motorcycles while the dog sniffs for drugs or perhaps Alberta beef that we might be smuggling across. It is a hot wait but we are finally cleared to head south to Shelby where we turn east on Highway 2. This is a fast (75 mph) little-traveled road through very beautiful prairie landscapes and small farm communities. It is a beautiful day for riding and we enjoy every moment stopping at the Cottonwood Inn in Glasgow, Montana for the night.

Against The Wind

2009-07-03T21:09:00.000-07:00

It is already a hot morning when we leave Creston but as long as the bike is moving and the wind is in our face we stay cool. Our black leather traveling gear can be hot, heavy, and uncomfortable when temperatures are high, however, we’re not complaining, as we’ve endured enough bad weather riding to be grateful for everyday of sunshine on a trip.
Our beloved Route 3 begins its climb into the Rocky Mountain range, winds along the scenic Moyie River and even more spectacular Moyie Lake zipping us through Cranbrook (where we jump ahead an hour) and into the alpine town of Fernie. As a skiing/winter sport destination, Fernie is booming and has much good accommodation and many restaurants including a Tim Horton‘s where we stop for lunch. We follow the rushing Elk River into coal mining country and Sparwood is the last BC town before we cross the Continental Divide amid lofty mountain peaks and glacial rock deposits thousands of years old. Just on the other side of the provincial border is the landslide site where the village of Frank once stood - bit of an eerie place that we usually hurry through. We’re about to leave Route 3 and feeling a bit sad as we’ve hardly done it justice this trip, speeding along trying to cover many miles early in this journey.
There are many top-notch stops we can recommend including the Cascade hiking trails of Manning Park where you can camp and hike for days. The Mascot Gold Mine tour from the Snaza'ist Discovery Centre in Hedley takes you up to the Provincial Heritage site perched precariously on the side of the mountain overlooking the Similkameen Valley. We love staying at the Gold House B&B in Hedley as it was originally the Gold Assay office. Another world-class destination on Route 3 is Osoyoos - whether you’re a golfer, a water sport enthusiast, a wine lover, or a naturalist! The Nk’mip Resort offers outstanding accommodation on a ridge that overlooks the town and the lake. They also have a huge RV and camping park, a fabulous winery, and the NK'MIP Desert Cultural Centre highlights the rare plants and animals of this desert landscape. The Cranbrook area has much to offer too, including Fort Steele and the cute Bavarian-themed town of Kimberly. If you’ve never ridden Route 3 make your next priority ride (those of you still car-bound will enjoy it too).
Just east of Crowsnest village we turn left onto Alberta highway 22 heading for Black Diamond. This is foothills country where the great plains have begun to rock-n-roll in front of the Rockies. Many of the people who live here believe it is the most beautiful place on earth and it is gorgeous today, although the winds are gusting high and the clouds are moving in. Much of the movie Brokeback Mountain was filmed in this area around Longview.

Good Morning Sunshine

2009-07-02T21:26:00.000-07:00

Our first day on the road is often short on distance but important because it is our test run. We need to know how the bike will handle with the load and we need to be close to home in case we’ve left anything undone or forgotten something. So we spent our first night at our son, David’s place in Kitsilano, which is a great destination anytime. Kitsilano is an older, high-density suburb of Vancouver, with tremendous charm, great shopping and fabulous beaches. Barry enjoyed barbecuing chicken for the four of us and David’s partner, Iwona made a wonderful Butternut squash soup (we weaseled the recipe out of her). In Iwona’s cooking nothing is wasted and this tasty soup uses the nutrient-rich skin of the squash as well.

Iwona’s Butternut Squash Soup
Wash two butternut squash (these are the yellow ones plentiful all summer while their skins are still somewhat tender). Remove the stems and put both whole squash into a large pot and cover with water and boil until fork tender. Remove the squash , chop into pieces, and remove and discard the pulp. Put the pieces of squash back into the pot, add chicken broth or chicken Oxo flavouring, or any vegetable-based flavouring you like, lots of rosemary and salt/pepper to taste. Use your hand blender to blend all the ingredients and reheat. The squash thickens the soup nicely. If you don’t like sprigs of rosemary floating in your soup you can strain it or use ground rosemary. Enjoy!

We awoke to sunshine this morning even at the early departure time of 6:30 which we chose to avoid rush hour traffic. I am not a morning person - I like to have at least half a pot of coffee on the inside before I tackle anything like getting dressed! Despite my lack of enthusiasm, I am always amazed to see all the people who are up at that time of day - walking dogs, drinking coffee on patios, and reading newspapers at bus stops. Of course there are also many rather glumly beginning their commute, probably I look like them! Our reward for early rising was to see the sunshine dancing on the surface of the mighty Fraser as we zoomed across the Port Mann bridge.
We made great time all the way to Hope, taking perverse pleasure in going the opposite direction to rush hour traffic. Hope is a talisman spot for us, we stop there outbound and inbound, hoping for safe traveling and thankful for good journeys. Of course the fact that the Home Restaurant makes the best breakfasts and wonderful pies is a further enticement to stop.
Route 3, also known as the Crowsnest Highway is our route of choice for today. We love the way much of the road follows rivers: we ride beside the Skagit, the Similkameen, the Okanogan, the Kettle, the Columbia, and the Salmo. Route 3 also traverses beautiful river valleys and climbs and descends through the Northern Cascade mountains, the Okanogan highlands, and the Kootaney Range before twisting its way through the majestic Rockies! We ride through a variety of small towns and villages; communities rooted in farming, mining, or forestry that are increasing turning to tourism to maintain their viability.
We stop for the night at the Sunset Motel in Creston, BC. This older motel is well-kept by its delightful long time owners. The small pool is a remedy for tired muscles and sore bottoms after a long day of riding more than 750 km.

SONG OF THE OPEN ROAD

2009-07-01T15:29:00.000-07:00

Astride light hearted, we take to the open road. Healthy, free, the world before us (apologies to Walt Whitman).

Canada Day - what better day to begin our journey across North America and back again, traveling from our home in Nanaimo on Vancouver Island to St. John’s Newfoundland! As islanders we begin all road trips with the BC Ferries. One of the huge perks of motorcycling is that many ferry systems board and disembark motorcycles first, as well as almost guaranteeing passage without waiting. The weather is perfect, breezy and about 20C near the water. The Georgia Strait between Departure Bay and Horseshoe Bay Is beautiful as always. As frequent ferry riders we take for granted the incredible beauty of the Coast mountains as they plunge into the Pacific and it’s only when we overhear the exclamations about the scenery in a variety of languages that we are reminded that travelers come from all over the world to experience the awesome Pacific Northwest. It is a very clear day and as we near Vancouver we can see majestic Mount Baker as backdrop to the skyscrapers of the city. Although Mount Baker is in Washington state across the border many British Columbians claim it as our own as our views of it are arguably unsurpassed.

Today Blister, our 2006 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide FLHTCUI, is a sparkling black beauty and packed tight - the tour-pak and saddlebags full to bursting. Like all travelers we know we’ll jettison a few non-essential items and Blister will sulk under layers of dust and no doubt some mud in the days ahead. We are experienced long road trippers and as prepared as we think we can be. Traveling on motorcycle begins as an exercise in traveling light than becomes a joy.